Tool Talk
Classic Power Tools => Classic Power Tools => Topic started by: Twilight Fenrir on May 15, 2017, 09:31:30 AM
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Yesterday, I found my personal heaven... A place full of olde machinery that is being sold for scrap prices!
I picked up some other things, and will get more next weekend. (god I wish I had more shop space, the stuff there was insane!) but the biggest thing I got was this big old camel back drill press! (medium sized for a camel back I suppose, I've seen them over 10' tall)
Everything seems to turn alright, though it needs cleaning and new oil. It has so many bells and whistles and levers, I love it! Was a nightmare getting it to stand up out of my truck bed with my engine hoist and a come-along... I ran chains across to my power hammer, and other heavy shop equipment to use as anchors while I winched it up, and wound up dragging my hammer across my garage instead... This sucker is HEAVY! I also had to remove the trim on my garage door to get it in... Just squeeked by...
Obviously it needs a new flat belt, and v-belts for the motor would be wise as well... I'm gonna remove the safety cage, I don't think the flat belt poses a significant hazard at all, and it will make maintanence more of a chore. The motor has 3 wires coming out of it, which means it is NOT a 3-phase, as that requires 4 wires, right?
I didn't see a makers mark on it, but I haven't scoured over it yet...
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170514_200636_zpsdggbw38a.jpg)
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4 wires? could it be old 2 phase wiring? I know it was still around in the 70's here in souther Illinois in the old parts of some towns. I'd love to have my old 20" or 22" cannedy otto up and running, got it all loosened up everything turns smoothly.
Does yours have down feed on the quill?
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4 wires? could it be old 2 phase wiring? I know it was still around in the 70's here in souther Illinois in the old parts of some towns. I'd love to have my old 20" or 22" cannedy otto up and running, got it all loosened up everything turns smoothly.
Does yours have down feed on the quill?
It has 3 wires, so I am assuming it is 110 or 220, I didn't see a plaque on the motor like I would normally expect... Motor is a little crusty, I might have to replace it anyway, but it was well protected from water.
I guess it depends on what you mean.... There are 4 levers on the quil, the main lowering one, a strange stubby one on the opposite side that appears connected to the main arm. There's one that lowers a small wheel which allows for very precise lowering, and a 4th lever that, when combined with the wheel lever, makes it self-feeding. (I THINK, that's what it looks like...)
Up where thr quill comes out of, there is a large lever that slides a gear around, it doesn't have full movement at the moment... Not sure what it is, but I suspect gear reduction, or a disengage. Then there are about a half dozen other levers I haven't looked at closely on the opposite of the pictured side...
I plan on putting PB buster in all the oil wells today to let it sit and work its magic... I'll do some closer inspection, and take more pictures when I do...
And I thought my large Champion post-mount was elaborate...
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That motor looks old enough to have a brass plate on one of the end bell, maybe the pulley side? Ican't seem to find pics of mine on the computer. I'm sure there are pics on my shop page in FB. 3000 pics there probably 10-20 of it on there.
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What a beautiful beast!
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That motor looks old enough to have a brass plate on one of the end bell, maybe the pulley side? Ican't seem to find pics of mine on the computer. I'm sure there are pics on my shop page in FB. 3000 pics there probably 10-20 of it on there.
I think I found a plaque on the motor, but it's completely obscured at the moment... I'll try to carefully clean it, but it might be painted over, a little hard to tell, I have to get the rest of the "Safety" cage off of it before I can get to it.
Anywho, futzed about with it as I said I would today, and have goods, and bads, and apparently I was exagerating on the number of levers :P
It is a W. F. & J Barne's 25" drill press, which is larger than any of the ones posted on Vintage machinery. None of their catalogues seem to have it listed either, but the only metal working machinery catalogue they have up is from 1898, since this was made specifically with an electric motor, it's almost certainly more modern than that. I believe I found a plaque with more details on it, but it's been painted over heavily, and will take some care to clean and read.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170515_195558_zpsqukdtdwo.jpg)
The press has two driveshafts, which can be switched with the large lever on the left side of the press nearest the belt drive. The upper shaft appears to run on gear reduction, while the lower shaft is direct drive. The lever in the head, from which the quill descends, allows you to switch between the upper and lower shafts. However, the gear has been welded/brazed to the lower drive :/ It looks as though the teeth were somewhat stripped, and someone just went ahead and solved it brute force. I'd love to replace the two surfaces and get it working again, but I doubt I'll come across parts any time soon...
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170515_193207_zpsqs7upi8j.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170515_193158_zpsdun7sl7m.jpg)
Over on the right, are all the parts I previously mentioned... Main crank down, a worm-gear hand crank, and the switch that activates the auto-feed... Reading some of the catalogues leads me to think that the press might have an auto-stop as well, but I don't see what mechanism would allow that... Maybe whatever the chain on the quill hooks to inside the frame?
Also on the right, there's a strange slot with a post, and 4 locking holes... on the other side, there is a wheel with many holes drilled through it. I have no idea what this is for... I didn't fiddle with it extensively yet though...
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170515_193243_zpsr8e1vwx3.jpg)
Someone appears to have just put in new babbit into the bearings, which is awesome. But, they forgot to drill back out the oil-holes. Which is bad, but easily fixed, just have to pull the drive shafts and drill them out.
Table height adjustment works remarkably well... Taking a wire-wheel to the shaft quickly should make it adjust smooth as silk...
In my wrestling with it the other day, I broke the lever that engages the worm-gear feed... any suggestions on reattaching it? ^^;
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170515_193310_zpsfzytstrd.jpg)
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It appears to be a descendant of the #5 pictured here...
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/Drill%20press_zpsrovlhins.jpg)
Mine is missing the little bar that runs above the lower belt drum, and the arm that comes off of it... There's a pair of holes through the frame to allow for it, and there are set screws there to retain it, but the bar and arm are not around, and I have no idea what it is for...
There's also a lever with a fork up just underneath the upper drum, that seems to slip under a piece of sheet metal. I'm not certain what this is for, but I'm guessing it's to slacken the belt for adjustment? the pivot on mine is broken off, but that's easily repaired.
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Nice!
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Hi Twilight, I know what your thoughts are after breaking a part, thru the years, most of the time that I broke
something, it was due to trying to remove or operate something without thinking it through.
today they have some real good penetrants, and we all know that they are not a few seconds miracle, now
if I am trying to remove something that is stuck, it is spray, wait, tap and spray again, and let it sit for a while,
but then yet, being retired sometimes helps with the waiting part.
I am looking forward to your update reports, good luck.
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Looks like cast iron, that lever. Figure out how to remove it, find a good welder, take his/her guidance as to what method (welding, brazing) will work best.
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Hi Twilight, take a look at the camelback on ebay. item # 232333494114
it might give you some ideas as to the motor and drill size.
Frank
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Hard to weld cast iron. It spiders out and cracks all over, even if you pre-heat it. I would braze it with a brass rod and lots of extra borax.
Very nice piece of iron.
Chilly
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Post heat is as if not more important when welding cast iron. Peterson's cast iron flux with cast iron rods or clean piston rings. I do some small stuff it can be hard, getting all the impurities to float to the top and not melt into a complete puddle. I've done cracks in toy / salesman's sample wood stoves when finished there is no sign of the repair, color and grain is exact. Brazing works well but you need a little more brass to flow /adhere to both sides and build up some strength.
I don't have a pic of a weld / crack repair, got one of a stove with a door I recast cause someone had ground off the name Karr range Belleville, IL. The wife's family name is Mueller that is why I made it a Mueller Stove. These are fairly rare, about 50 were re-popped they are easy to tell from an original "Phillips head screws" give it away. This one is an early version with the older style warming bins. At one time Belleville was the stove capital of the world, more kitchen stoves were made there than any where else. Still one place still making them.
2nd pic is of some of the replacement parts I cast for different stoves. The wife has ????10-20 ??? probably more like 40 or 50 of these? They are bigger than the "kids toys" that china repops, size is about 12" wide and 16-18" tall with the warming bins. Even bought a "pexto" easy edger with spiral crimp to do flue/ smoke pipes for these little stoves. Some day I'd like to melt cast iron but that is down the road.
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geezers that really use those drill press call 'em "upright" floor drill press and get a little !@#$%^&*())(*&^%$#@! when called camelbacks. ask me how i know……… nice machine.
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I got the rest of the cage off, definitely no plaque on the motor... I'm going to look at the power switch, seeing how that's wired SHOULD let me figure out what I need to do for a power supply. Unfortunately, someone used identical red wire on all 3 runs, so I'll have to sort it out with a continuity check which is annoying... The motor is really crusty looking, but it spins freely, I'm optimistic. I'll take an air gun and blow out the easy debris. There is a grease fitting on each end of the motor, so I'll give it some new grease, and start hot wiring it to see if it works.
After soaking in PB blaster everything turns nicely, so it seems to be just a matter of getting a new belt, sorting/replacing the motor, and getting a chuck key, and I'll be in business! :D I'm gonna get measurements for the belt and key today to get them on order, and I'll fiddle with the motor as well.
It'll be fun moving the thing across my garage.... But I have 30 three foot lengths of 3/8" round steel, I think I'll try rolling it across log-style.
As for the broken lever... I'm contemplating drilling a hole in both pieces, and JB welding a steel rod, as well as the joint to try to reenforce it. Does that sound workable? I'm just not confident enough to try to weld or braze it. I've fixed a little cast iron in the past, but I was using a MIG welder with nickle/silver wire that was a friends...
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geezers that really use those drill press call 'em "upright" floor drill press and get a little !@#$%^&*())(*&^%$#@! when called camelbacks. ask me how i know……… nice machine.
Gee, how do you know? And did your learning leave any physical scars, or just emotional?
Maybe the geezers in question thought you were referring to them when you said "camelback" :smiley:
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Well, made some interesting progress today... Figured out my belt size, 3" x 184". I'll start hunting down a source for that.
Also discovered that I bought a chuck, and got a free drillpress thrown in... because I have a Jacob's No. 36 in there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jacobs-drill-chuck-no-36-3-16-3-4-capacity-/252676429796?hash=item3ad4b057e4:g:83oAAOSwcUBYTDpf
Haha, I ordered a key for it.
I discovered ANOTHER gear reducer built into the top belt drum! A little armature goes up and secures a post that holds a plate on the pulley. There's a planetary gearset inside of it, and it seems to slow it down something like 4 to 1. But I'm not sure yet, as I can't quite get a full rotation out of it right now, the whole drum is full of nut shells from a squirrel, and it's been heck trying to clean it out... The previous owner installed a plate over the post, and had disabled the locking arm, so it's possible the gears inside are broken, Otherwise disabling it seems silly... Either way, I'll find out eventually.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170518_185459_zpshxph7lbe.jpg)
The motor took a turn down confusing avenue... I opened up what I thought would be a simple switch and found a fairly complex motor control system... I'm not sure what I'm looking at, and thus far, google hasn't been helping me as much as I'd like... Still working on it... There's a wiring and instruction diagram inside the case, but it's so old and covered with oil it's very difficult to read. But it seems the possibility of it being polyphasic is back on the table, as at least one of the diagrams seems to indicate 3 wires could be used for 2 phase, or 3 phase....
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170518_193027_zpsrfijmnrg.jpg)
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Ah crap... it's a 3 phase... another motor I can't use... I wish the 3phase converters weren't so expensive. It might be worth my time to pick one up when I've got some extra money laying around... which never happens... because I throw it all at old tools >_> <_<
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make one!
http://www.metalwebnews.com/electric.html (http://www.metalwebnews.com/electric.html)
I've made two and have not had one problem with them, the static one I bought lasted a month or two past the warranty. waste of money! 1st pic one I built to run my bridgeport, pic 2 is the insides of the static that blew.
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make one!
http://www.metalwebnews.com/electric.html (http://www.metalwebnews.com/electric.html)
I've made two and have not had one problem with them, the static one I bought lasted a month or two past the warranty. waste of money! 1st pic one I built to run my bridgeport, pic 2 is the insides of the static that blew.
That's flipping awesome! Unfortunately, the biggest 3ph I have at the moment is the one on my drill press, (assuming, anyway, based on its physical size) but I know I could pick up a 3-4hp 3ph motor easily and cheaply enough to make this practical.
I'll probably strip off the motor and switch for the time being, and replace them with the half horse I have on my other large press for the time being, but I'll hang onto the 3ph gear for future conversion.
Thanks! :D
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geezers that really use those drill press call 'em "upright" floor drill press and get a little !@#$%^&*())(*&^%$#@! when called camelbacks. ask me how i know……… nice machine.
Gee, how do you know? And did your learning leave any physical scars, or just emotional?
Maybe the geezers in question thought you were referring to them when you said "camelback" :smiley:
just emotional… 30 years ago i bought 1 at a sale and the auctioneer called it camelback. shortly after went to steam show where smithys were setup working and using a upright. 1st mistake then, listening to auctioneer, then 3 years back another auctioneer said he thought this was a flame thrower. i knowed better this time. i guess i should thank auctioneers for a round bout education.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCkjPxe_gVg&t
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If you know a hvac contractor you could get some used run capacitors for free. they last!
The 3hp ran a couple of years then I had to have a bigger one so asked a friend to look for one he had a 5 hp crocker-wheeler motor that was stuck, but a good cleaning, little sand paper, new grease in bearings it's been going since 1995. I greased it in 2015 for the second time.
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Ooh, this could make for a nice idler :D
https://duluth.craigslist.org/hvo/6077169234.html
Contacted the seller about it, I'll see where it goes... I'd probably start with the manual switch for the time being, just for expediency. Can always rig up the auto-start at a future date. It'd be sweet to be able to use the motor that came with the press :D
I've always heard these presses called camelbacks by oldtimers.... Any drill press that's not a benchtop is an upright, by my understanding of the taxonomy o.o
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Any idea what kind of amperage the idler motor will draw? Is it going to be equal to plate values?
If I'm running that 3HP motor, that's 10amps on 3ph, since its only running on 2 phase, is it going to be pulling 15 amps per line, 10 amps, or 6.6 amps? I need to add whatever the idler consumes to what I'm going to run to figure out what kind of wiring I need to run...
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Start up amps is lock rotor "lra" but that is only for a less than a second, wire size and amp draw use the "FLA" full load amps. The idler motor doesn't draw that cause there is no load till you start the drill press motor then you will draw that amperage plus a little more for the idler. I had the sme questions when I made my 1st and once I got it going I had the amprobe and volt meter to see what it really was doing. Well my memory isn't that good 93 and 95, hell that was last century! I run the imbalanced which has not hurt any motor so far! The Jim Hanrahan version I think it still is among the list, list is bigger now!
You will need to have the slow blow fuses or the harc style breaker for you motor.
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Start up amps is lock rotor "lra" but that is only for a less than a second, wire size and amp draw use the "FLA" full load amps. The idler motor doesn't draw that cause there is no load till you start the drill press motor then you will draw that amperage plus a little more for the idler. I had the sme questions when I made my 1st and once I got it going I had the amprobe and volt meter to see what it really was doing. Well my memory isn't that good 93 and 95, hell that was last century! I run the imbalanced which has not hurt any motor so far! The Jim Hanrahan version I think it still is among the list, list is bigger now!
You will need to have the slow blow fuses or the harc style breaker for you motor.
Makes sense... I'm gonna run #10 wire, just to be safe, though. Plus, that will build up a nice comfortable buffer if I ever start wanting to run just ridiculous motors :P Tomorrow I'm going to pick up that 3HP 3ph motor to use as my idler. Which should let me run anything I'll need in the forseeable future. I estimate my home-made 3phase converter will cost me about $130 when all is said and done. Heck of a lot cheaper than a production one.
I also ordered a flat belt from McMaster Carr.
Also good news, I got the gear reducer built into the drum turning! :D It's a little sticky every now and then, but I'm gonna start hosing it down with PB buster daily and giving it a few turns to try and smooth it out. It has a 5 to 1 ratio when engaged.... Between the initial V-belt step down, the flat belt step downs, and the gear reducer, I think I'll be able to slow the drill down to less than 60 RPMs o_o Guess I'll be good if I ever need to drill 2" holes in a block of steel with a twist drill bit, lol.
I still have no idea what that detent pull-out post with the perforated wheel behind it is for... The perforated wheel turns with the drill, and the post rides along a shaft inside when adjusted...
Also, the flat belt pulleys are obviously meant for speed adjustment, moving the belt from one step to another just like modern presses... But I don't see any way to slacken the belt so it can be moved... I had to cut the old one off. Does anyone have any insight on this? I wonder if it has to do with that missing bar/arm directly above the lower drum... EDIT: Okay, found my answer on adjusting the belt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFJVmahx4vg
Thanks!
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Progress steams right along...
I really love the lines on this press... It looks like how H.R. Geiger would design a drill press. (I'm mostly looking at the curved part that comes up over the top on that one, it very much resembles a Xenomorph from Alien) I really want to sit and paint the thing... but that's time and expense I don't have right now.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170520_173736_zpsx1zzjep1.jpg)
I managed to move the thing across my shop by lifting it on top of some lengths of 3/8" round stock, and just pushing it. This would be much easier if my garage floor were smooth, but unfortunately my uncle didn't take the time to do a nice job when he put it in 30 years ago... oh well, at least it isn't cracked...
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170520_175157_zpsz9axj2yk.jpg)
As it turns out, McMaster Car is also from Minnesota, so my belt showed up this morning after only one business day... I had a little trouble installing the alligator, the back side kept wanting to twist rather than to dig into the belt. But after some fiddling with a pair of needle nose pliers, and using my blacksmith vise instead of a hammer, I got the lacing in and the belt on. (Yes, my shop is a horrible nightmare of a mess... it's constantly changing and evolving... I'm working on organizing it ^^;)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170522_193024_zpsrjip4l8d.jpg)
I drilled, and tapped the broken handle. Inserting a 1/4" machine screw, and JB ClearWelded the two parts back together, as well as the screw. Supposedly the Clearweld has a 4,400PSI yield strength, (Which is 500 greater than regular JB) combined with the screw, I'm hoping this will make for a sufficient repair.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170520_195226_zpsimojjw0e.jpg)
As it turns out... my friend has a similar-era W.F.&J. Barne's drill press laying in his yard, though this one has the moveable head. Unfortunately, he is unwilling to sell me parts for mine... but his does have some stickers which shed light on the funny perforated wheel with the adjustable post. This adjusts the feed-speed of the auto-feed.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170520_131532_zpsxhjp2e7h.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170520_132042_zpsdpkjcjrt.jpg)
I'm just waiting on the capacitor for my new 3HP 3ph motor to build my 3 phase converter, and some new v-belts to link the motor to the flat belts. Both of which should be here before the end of the week, so I should have her up and running this weekend at the latest, assuming both motors work! Though, I have a known good 3/4HP 3ph already I'll swap out with the included motor if it doesn't run.
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Nice. Looks like a sweetie. Too bad about that other one rusting in the yard.. :tongue:
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YUS! My 3 phase converter works like a charm! And the motor that came with my drill press works too! :D
Just have to take apart my bench-test, and run the wires through my garage and I'll have 3 phase power in my shop! Thank you so much for suggesting this idea, oldgoaly, this is gonna make life much easier in the long haul... and much cheaper to pick up motors for my heavy machinery, as no one can actually use 3 phase :P
For some reason, my V belts haven't shipped out yet... which is annoying... Otherwise, I'm all good to go!
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yes it is that easy! glad you made one!
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I like your handle patch.
Good ol JB Weld!
Chilly
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I like your handle patch.
Good ol JB Weld!
Chilly
Thanks :3 It works for now. I flipped the lever 20 or 30 times and it seems pretty solid. We'll see how long it holds up, but I'm pretty confident in it, I think the bolt will make it strong enough.
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Blah, things took a hard turn down disaster avenue today... I managed to finish running the wire, and get everything connected for real... And the drill press motor wouldn't turn on... After a few minutes of scratching my head, and pushing the button again, and again, and again, expecting something different to magically happen, I pulled out my multimeter.
I found I DID have power on all 3 legs to the drill press switch, but apparently the wires between my switch and the motor were grounding out to the chassis somewhere, so the switch wouldn't let me turn it on. Amazing how clever 80 year old technology can be... Anywho, the insulation on the wires coming out of the motor down where it comes out of the motor was all cracked and rotten. After cursing for a bit, I demounted the motor, and managed to crack it open (after shattering the incredibly flimsy pulley that was on there... Another $10 tacked on to this project..) Luckily, there was enough wire inside the motor for me to solder on new leads, and poke them back out of the motor. I am incredibly lucky that this is an ancient motor that was designed to be serviceable. A lot of newer motors are pressed together. I haven't gotten it back in, as I need to pick up a pulley tomorrow and it will be easier to mount it with the motor off than on.
Another problem I was having, is that after turning on my converter switch for about 30 seconds, it would kick off... I had the same problem on the machine I stole the switch from, but I assumed it was the motor overheating... After scratching my head again, with more swearing... I eventually figured out I have it installed backwards ^^; I'm not used to switches having a definitive "In" and "out". But, I was done for today, so I haven't flipped it around yet to see if it solves my problems. Hopefully I'll get it done this weekend.
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Congrats , I got a big boy a few years ago and fixed it up. Makes drilling holes a real pleasure.
Looking forward to seeing it all done.
Here`s the link to mine at the Garage Gazette. http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=18869.0
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Today continued to not be smooth... Turns out, my motor has a goofy arbor size, 1-3/8" o.o So, the place I buy all my pulleys from didn't have anything with that size... I found I could custom order one, and did so, but it cost $32 T.T
Also, after futzing around with my switch a while longer, I discovered it has a thermal protection setup I've never seen before... (It may be common to the world, but I've never personally seen one) it has little heater elements that are wired in line! It turns out, these elements can be swapped out to match whatever motor you are running with the switch! Pretty nifty. It had N-19 heaters, which are rated for 3.2A, which explains why it tripped even when I had a 120v 1/2HP motor running off of it...
Luckily, someone on eBay had the heaters I needed pretty cheap, so I ordered a pair of N-30s. With shipping, came to $8, which was significantly cheaper than buying a new switch... and less re-wiring..
Back to waiting for parts... almost there.... again....
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It's up and running! But I'm having a hard time getting a video to upload... So, sorry, nothing to share at the moment...
I've got some fine tuning to do still.... The V-belts are a little too tight, and the flat belt is a little too loose, but these are easily remedied.
My new pulley doesn't quite fit my motor arbor, despite supposedly being a 1-3/8 bore on the pulley... I'm gonna get my calliper out and contact the manufacturer this weekend. But for now I've got it shimmed with some sections I cut out of a pop can. So it's usable as-is. :3
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Cool!
probably best to upload to youtube or vimeo and share a link to the video
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Cool!
probably best to upload to youtube or vimeo and share a link to the video
I used to do it to photobucket, but it's having none of that for some reason now... I'll try youtube...
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Here we go... Thrilling stuff to watch, I know, but I'm excited to finally have a drill press with no slop in the quill... This is my 5th press, and I hope it's the last! The chattering you hear is the pulley wobbling on my motor arbor... Once I get that shimmed, or replaced, it will be much quieter...
Now I just gotta figure out what to do with all the holes drilled in the table.... I've read some interesting ideas, my favorite is taking metal dust, mixing it with a little resin and just pouring it in. Supposed to yield a patch basically as good as the surrounding metal, as it's 95% made out of the surrounding metal. But it will be a chore to clean it well enough to patch. For now, I'll probably just bolt a plate on top.
https://youtu.be/CYcOtfsjymU
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Nice. Thanks! :smiley:
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Twilight, that is music at it's finest, I was hoping to hear it running, thanks.
as for the pulley, could you heat the pulley and let some lead seep into the open space,
something like pouring babbit bearings
just a wild thought. Frank
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Twilight, that is music at it's finest, I was hoping to hear it running, thanks.
as for the pulley, could you heat the pulley and let some lead seep into the open space,
something like pouring babbit bearings
just a wild thought. Frank
I probably could... I dunno, it wouldn't be much lead, granted, but that's still lopsiding mass that spins at 1750 RPMs...
The shims I cut out of aluminum cans has taken the clatter out, and I think I'm sufficiently lazy that I'm just gonna leave it that way, unless it causes trouble down the road :P
I have to give the flat-belt a bit of a pull to get the motor started when it's under the load of the press, though. I'm not sure if I just need to loosen the V-belt tension a bit more or if the motor is weak, but it's not a big deal. In the next few days I'll mount my vise, and try drilling a hole in something :P
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That's almost as memorizing as a power hammer! good to see it in action!
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The chatter is gone, and the press starts up without a hand turn now, just had to slacken the V-belts a little bit more!
I do declare this press effectively done! (Until such time as I have the leisure time to paint it :P)
Now, on to my new power hacksaw, which the thread will be going up for shortly! :P
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Look at what just showed up on our local Craigslist.
https://allentown.craigslist.org/tls/6144342146.html
Up for sale is an antique Monarch Machinery camel back drill press manufactured in Philadelphia, PA. There are also pulley wheels, metal shelves, a metal cabinet, and other tools such as a grinder included in the sale if you are interested. Check the pictures below. These are in the basement of a garage workshop. I am not sure of the age of these items, but the house was built in 1911. The garage is dry in the basement, but years of moisture have rusted everything. The drill press can be moved in one piece, I am not sure if it will come apart. The other items are bolted into the wall and will need an impact wrench or grinder to remove them. The walls are solid and built like a bunker. Some things are rusted shut and I am not sure if they will be usable again. I think all of this aged industrial machinery would be great deco for a steampunk themed restaurant or business. I also have a rough cut wood workbench with a metal bending tool and crimper tool attached, it is in another listing. Only serious buyers and reasonable offers please. If interested, please respond with a phone number I can reach you at.
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Look at what just showed up on our local Craigslist.
https://allentown.craigslist.org/tls/6144342146.html
Up for sale is an antique Monarch Machinery camel back drill press manufactured in Philadelphia, PA. There are also pulley wheels, metal shelves, a metal cabinet, and other tools such as a grinder included in the sale if you are interested. Check the pictures below. These are in the basement of a garage workshop. I am not sure of the age of these items, but the house was built in 1911. The garage is dry in the basement, but years of moisture have rusted everything. The drill press can be moved in one piece, I am not sure if it will come apart. The other items are bolted into the wall and will need an impact wrench or grinder to remove them. The walls are solid and built like a bunker. Some things are rusted shut and I am not sure if they will be usable again. I think all of this aged industrial machinery would be great deco for a steampunk themed restaurant or business. I also have a rough cut wood workbench with a metal bending tool and crimper tool attached, it is in another listing. Only serious buyers and reasonable offers please. If interested, please respond with a phone number I can reach you at.
Holy crap! I want that line shaft! XD
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I liked that video.
Those holes look small enough that a drill vise wouldn't be affected. I think it is usable, until you can get to the repairs, at least. Even with that long quill it is nice to be able to clamp close to the table.
How long is the stroke on that press?
Chilly
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I liked that video.
Those holes look small enough that a drill vise wouldn't be affected. I think it is usable, until you can get to the repairs, at least. Even with that long quill it is nice to be able to clamp close to the table.
How long is the stroke on that press?
Chilly
The holes are much worse than they look there... And there's countless numbers of them. I think the only flat parts of the table are on the edges. My X/Y vise is too small for the table, haha. It cannot be mounted under the chuck without the table getting in the way of turning the handle... But, I'll just have to make an extension for it.
The press has an 18" stroke on it. I'm not sure why it's labeled a 25" drill press.... What is that 25" referring to?
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Could it be from the center line of the chuck and the frame of the drill? like a lathe that can spin a 10" diameter part makes it a 10" lathe, going way back that would have been a 5" lathe.
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Could it be from the center line of the chuck and the frame of the drill? like a lathe that can spin a 10" diameter part makes it a 10" lathe, going way back that would have been a 5" lathe.
Oh, sure, that would make sense! Sounds about right, too...
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OG has it correct.
Their size is determined by the distance from the drill to the column. For example, a 12" drill press will bore a hole through the center of a round piece 12" in diameter. What it means is the size is determined by the distance from drill point to column but the actual advertised size is the diameter of the biggest round piece that can be drilled on center, or double the distance from drill to post