Author Topic: Inside a ratchet: How they work  (Read 223762 times)

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Offline bonneyman

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American Forge 3901
« Reply #90 on: November 23, 2011, 05:52:54 PM »
Snagged other ratchet today. An American Forge in 3/8" drive.
A semi-free floating pawl, with 44 teeth in the head.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US2981389

I have a no-name that was made by New Britain that uses this design, and we have a Sparta rat exploded view with the same thing. Plus I've seen a Husky with this system. Maybe N.B. had a niche with this mechanism?
« Last Edit: December 07, 2019, 04:48:17 PM by bonneyman »
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Offline rusty

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #91 on: November 28, 2011, 05:53:09 PM »
>Here is a S-K slide type reversing 3/8 drive ratchet. No part number.

Kewl,I just found a broken one at the flea. Took it apart and the tiny ball was rusted and stuck, a few gentle taps and it's all happy now. Lubed it up and it works fine.

It is a coarse ratchet, not as nice as the later SK's, also has a lot of backlash, the frankenstein ears tend to travel with the gear so they have to move back quite a bit when you reverse direction before the pawl pin reengages the gear.  Probably why this type of ratchet didn't stay around long...
Just a weathered light rust/WD40 mix patina.

Offline bonneyman

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Old Dunlap ratcheting box wrenches
« Reply #92 on: December 03, 2011, 06:20:46 PM »
I found a Dunlap ratcheting box wrench about a year ago. Simple but strong steel construction, with simple guts once you de-rivet the thing. I think I'll call it the 'winch' style of pawl.  https://patents.google.com/patent/US2421038
A related patent: https://patents.google.com/patent/US3742788A/en

I recently managed to grab some others, and updated them as well with S.S. cap screws and nuts. This then allows for disassembly for cleaning, lubing, and repairs. What I really like is that, if something breaks, one can make the pawls and spring at home with basic hand tools. A great feature when you can't just go to the local store and buy new.

The pawls can be flipped if one side gets really worn. So you can get twice the life out of a wrench. But I don't think wear is much of a concern. I tried cleaning up one pawl tip with a file, as it had a pesky nick. The file barely even touched it!
Plus, I discovered that the 3/8x7/16 pawls are the same size as the 1/2x9/16. Nice to know if you have a spare of one wrench and need parts to fix a broken one of the other size.

Update: I've got the largest size, so now I have the complete set of four.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2019, 04:59:03 PM by bonneyman »
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Offline KeepinOldBolts

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #93 on: December 17, 2011, 04:21:49 PM »
Armstrong, in 3/8" drive. I must say, this is the saamoooooothest ratchet I have ever used. It has replaced my Proto pear head as my go-to 3/8" un-buckler. Measuring a full 3/4" thick in the head of the ratchet! That's the same thickness as a 1/2" drive Cman.

It's a 24 tooth ratchet drive with a small knurled selector switch knob. Note the ball detent (between selector positions) which prevents accidental reversing while in hot pursuit of that 19/32" fastener under race conditions.



Old tractors, old cars, new Harleys

Looking for HinsDale 4 points 1/2dr in a few sizes and a Bonney 12point 1/2" in 3/8dr.

Offline Papaw

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Unmarked Proto, or Fleet?
« Reply #94 on: December 18, 2011, 03:14:57 PM »
Snagged this 3/8 drive ratchet at an estate sale yesterday. Locked up, frozen, and seemingly unmarked. I hope my $1 was well spent!
Needs a vinegar bath and disassembly.
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Offline kxxr

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #95 on: December 18, 2011, 08:04:57 PM »
Looks Proto-ish. No markings discernible, maybe some will show up in the cleaning.

Offline mrchuck

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #96 on: December 20, 2011, 08:24:56 AM »
It should clean up just fine. The Phillips head screws are always the hardest to get out, without buggering them. The springs behind each pawl dis-integrate sometimes too.

Let us know when you finish the restoration.
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Offline lauver

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #97 on: December 21, 2011, 12:00:01 AM »
Papaw,

Pretty sure it's from the Plomb/Proto family; likely to be Fleet or Penens based on the two coverplate design.  Let us know what you find under the rust and crud.  I have a Fleet and it's one of the better ratchets made by plomb/Proto.
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Offline Papaw

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #98 on: December 21, 2011, 07:50:27 AM »
24 hours in vinegar, warm water wash, and a light brass wire brushing cleaned it up nicely.
It is a Fleet #1261, Made in USA. The markings are clear, but so fine that they don't show in a close-up. Fleet is in all caps italicized. Also has OFF and ON by the selector, which is still very stiff.  I count 24 clicks when turning the drive.
Now for disassembly.
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Offline Papaw

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #99 on: December 21, 2011, 08:10:47 AM »
Nasty inside, and one spring missing. Looks like it will rebuild nicely.
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Offline Tool Pants

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #100 on: December 21, 2011, 11:42:34 PM »
There is something about those Fleet ratchets, and springs.  First Bull then me.

I have taken 100 or so ratchets apart,  Never lost a spring.  Then it happened with a Fleet.

Offline Papaw

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #101 on: December 22, 2011, 08:27:34 AM »
Haven't had time to search for springs yet, and the selector is stuck to one side still.
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Offline Tool Pants

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #102 on: January 06, 2012, 03:21:29 AM »
It does not have to be a cone spring.  Find a normal spring that has little tension and the correct diameter and cut it.  The spring in the pic has been used to fix 2 ratchets with missing or damaged springs, including the Fleet.  All the cone springs I have seen at hardware stores had way too much tension and are too big.

Those dual plate ratchets can be tricky getting back together.  Don't lose a spring.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2012, 03:31:23 AM by Tool Pants »

Offline KeepinOldBolts

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #103 on: January 21, 2012, 02:47:11 PM »
There is something about those Fleet ratchets, and springs.  First Bull then me.

I picked up my first Fleet today, a solid buck brought it home, although the end plates were weirdly bent and upon opening it....missing a spring! Go figure.

A donor spring from the parts bin was procured, and I'm on the way to the hardware store for a replacement missing phillips screw. Fun 'lil rat!
Old tractors, old cars, new Harleys

Looking for HinsDale 4 points 1/2dr in a few sizes and a Bonney 12point 1/2" in 3/8dr.

Offline rusty

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #104 on: January 21, 2012, 04:49:52 PM »
> the end plates were weirdly bent ...

The only weakness of this design, other than the pawl pinning, if you get the ratchet stuck to a socket, and try to pry it iff, it bends the face plates....

>on the way to the hardware store

You are supposed to have a coffee can full of ratchet screws - P

They are a nice overall idiot proof design tho, one of my favorite of the older designs : )
Just a weathered light rust/WD40 mix patina.