Throwing money away again

[john k]

The re-sell store that is open once a month gave me a sirens call.   Lots of garden/outside tools on a rack outside with the furniture etc.   Back inside, the back corner, where that radial arm drillpress was, were still boxes of tools.  Somebody has been sorting,  wrenches are now separate from screwdrivers.   Grabbed a handful of likelys.   Nice Warranted Superior saw with apple handle.   A North Bros. Yankee push drill, with full set of bits for a buck, Does not look near 60 years old.   Went through some bags of sockets, and found a small set of 3/8,  at least one was a SK, so grabbed them, 6 for a dollar.   Turns out only one is an SK but the others are the same minus the name stamp.  Got some stamps, steel ones, numbers and letters, set if missing 3 stamps.   Rather old by the shape of the letters.   Very nice SK speed handle, a half inch drive ext. with 3/4 socket.   Thorsen and Stanley screwdrivers, plus a saw file holder in aluminum.  Did not do great, but feel I got some good usable items.   Spent right at $20. 

[OilyRascal]

I have an affection for those green cap'd drivers (and the purple action versions).  " North Bros. Yankee push drill, with full set of bits for a buck"...........You did ok by your 20.

[Jim C.]

Don't knock yourself for buying a few old tools.  That money could have been spent on MANY worse things.  I fully support and share your addiction.    

Jim C.

[bill300d]

I second that motion

bill

[keykeeper]

The saw file holder is called a saw jointer. Why, I don't know. Highly sought after by those that sharpen and tune their own hand saws. Last one I had was steel, a buddy of mine spotted it on one of my shelves and told me he had been looking for one for a while. He was quite happy when I gave it to him to use!

You did very well for your money, John. I wouldn't have hesitated in the slightest to buy this lot!!

[Branson]

The saw file holder is called a saw jointer. Why, I don't know. Highly sought after by those that sharpen and tune their own hand saws.

The teeth at the tip of the blade and the teeth at the back of the saw blade get little use, meaning that the teeth in the middle get dull faster.   If you don't joint the blade before sharpening the teeth your saw will end up concave in the middle.

[Yadda]

Nice use of a Jackson! 

[rusty]

>...your saw will end up concave in the middle

Yes..but...what does it have to do with the word 'joint' ?

Or is it somehow from 'join', joining all the teeth together to be the same?

[Papaw]

For your reading pleasure-
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

Jointing

When a saw is very poorly filed, the teeth become different heights. When this happens, not all the teeth actually cut wood, which is less than optimum. By jointing a saw, we adjust all the teeth to the same height. To do this, place your saw in your saw vise so that about 2" of blade extends above the jaws. To joint the teeth, you will need a 10" smooth cut mill file. There are various old and new jointers that were made to do this job, but if you don't have one, don't worry. The job is so simple, you don't really need one. Take the file and lay it on the saw teeth and the heel end of the saw. Grasp the file with both hands, using your forefingers as a guide on each side of the blade. Keeping the file parallel to the floor, rub the file once across the entire length of the blade. If the blade is breasted (slight curve), follow the curve. Now carefully inspect the teeth. If the saw is in proper order, each tooth should have a tiny flat right at the top of the tooth. If some teeth have flats, and others don't, take another swipe. Continue until all the teeth have been leveled to the same height. If you have one or two broken teeth, DO NOT joint the saw until these teeth have flats on the top. Any saw will work just fine with a few teeth missing. As you repeatedly joint and sharpen your saw, these teeth will gradually emerge. If after a few swipes of the file, it is obvious that your saw is badly out of whack, you should consider having new teeth cut into your saw by a sharpening shop. The charge is small and it saves a great deal of time. At the end of this step, each tooth should have at least a little flat on the top of each tooth.

[Branson]

Yes..but...what does it have to do with the word 'joint' ?

Think jointer planes or a machine jointer.  It establishes an even plane for the tips of the teeth
so that when they are sharpened the tips will make a straight line.

[lauver]

john k,

You're not throwing money away... your investing in tool history

[Yadda]

For your reading pleasure-
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

Jointing

When a saw is very poorly filed, the teeth become different heights. When this happens, not all the teeth actually cut wood, which is less than optimum. By jointing a saw, we adjust all the teeth to the same height. To do this, place your saw in your saw vise so that about 2" of blade extends above the jaws. To joint the teeth, you will need a 10" smooth cut mill file. There are various old and new jointers that were made to do this job, but if you don't have one, don't worry. The job is so simple, you don't really need one. Take the file and lay it on the saw teeth and the heel end of the saw. Grasp the file with both hands, using your forefingers as a guide on each side of the blade. Keeping the file parallel to the floor, rub the file once across the entire length of the blade. If the blade is breasted (slight curve), follow the curve. Now carefully inspect the teeth. If the saw is in proper order, each tooth should have a tiny flat right at the top of the tooth. If some teeth have flats, and others don't, take another swipe. Continue until all the teeth have been leveled to the same height. If you have one or two broken teeth, DO NOT joint the saw until these teeth have flats on the top. Any saw will work just fine with a few teeth missing. As you repeatedly joint and sharpen your saw, these teeth will gradually emerge. If after a few swipes of the file, it is obvious that your saw is badly out of whack, you should consider having new teeth cut into your saw by a sharpening shop. The charge is small and it saves a great deal of time. At the end of this step, each tooth should have at least a little flat on the top of each tooth.

Learned something today!

Thank you for posting this!

[bonneyman]

With the way the dollar is heading I'm exchanging what I can for chrome and lead.

[Bill Houghton]

Way, way healthier than going down to the bar and drinking away $20.