Use your antiques!

[Stoney]

That's a cool idea Keykeeper. 

[Stoney]

My problem with cordless is that they keep changing the batteries and when I need a new battery, you know they get to where they won't hold a charge, the battery I need is no longer available and I have to get a new drill.

Makes me nuts!  A good tool made useless because the manufacturer changed the shape/size of the battery -- fah!  But Pawpa came to the rescue!
Batteries Plus probably has what you need:

http://www.batteriesplus.com/
Thanks to both of you about batteries plus.

[Nolatoolguy]

When it comes to power tools I usually go with the new stuff.

Now like intsance about the eggbeater I wouldnt use mine. It works great and all but I can bring my cordless an do it just as good,just as quik. I have a small 12 volt an a normal 18 volt witch works for most jobs. If I need to Ile break out the 28 volt cordless we have at work(my cousins my boss and doesnt mind if i borrow tools) Rarely exept for boring large wholes an drilling multiple wholes in concrete will I use a corded drill. With the new lithium ion batteries I use those. I have several batteries so I just change em out as i go. by time ime done with one battery theres still 3 more full an one on the charger. I never run low on batteries.

For hand tools I use my older tools the perfect handles, adjustbles, folding rules, etc

I love my cordless drills, and pretty much use them daily.  But I have to say that hand drills and braces do some things better.  Especially if you're restoring woodwork, you often have to really feel what's happening at the end of the drill.  Can't do that with any electric drill in my experience.  I have hundred year old center bits -- they do things no twist drill will do, so I use them. 

When I was building sets, I was using my cordless 8 to 13 hours a day.  Spare batteries are the only way to go.  I always kept three on hand, because it was possible to use the battery up in less than an hour.  I still carry at least one loaded spare battery, and make sure it's full of juice the night before.

Just about all my old tools are my favorites.  Each one does some job better than any other.

Yeh, doing fine cabinet work when I helped install cabinets or the time I made window boxes an some other fine projects I rely on my braces.

[scottg]

I'll use anything. At least everything I got!

     Well, actually there are few kinds and sizes of drill I don't have a lot of occasion to use, (like the super heavy Yankee breast drills)
But I would heheheheheheheeh

 Anyhoo, drill batteries can be rebuilt and for considerably cheaper than buying factory batteries.
  Stronger batteries for a much lower price. Its not -that- bad a job.

But even the best batteries are invariably weak or dead when the chips are down.

  What I use most, and need more and better of, are small 110v drills.
A good 3000rpm drill can be had easy enough.  And really crappy oversized plastic 1500's are available easy too.
 But a good small 1000rpm 3/8" drill, that is fairly lightweight but no shortage of torque?
 More of these I am having trouble locating. 
 
Keep your eyes peeled? Everyone made them once.   
 1000rpm more or less, 4 or 5 amps would be ideal, and as small and light as triple reduction drills allow.
I need a couple spares.

  I am kind of glad sometimes I grew up before battery tools were introduced. 
  yours Scott
 
     

[johnsironsanctuary]

I only use my little tablesaw in the basement shop when ABSOLUTELY necessary. Even with the shop vac hooked to it, there is too much mess. Yesterday I took my new Stanley 3258 miterbox for a test drive. First thing I discovered was that the backsaw had never been sharpened. It just barely scratched the oak. So, I sharpened it.  13 teeth per inch X 28 inches is a lot of teeth!  After I was done, I cut the board. Scott's right, I had forgotten how nice it feels to make a cut with a nice sharp handsaw.

[Nolatoolguy]

I'll use anything. At least everything I got!

     Well, actually there are few kinds and sizes of drill I don't have a lot of occasion to use, (like the super heavy Yankee breast drills)
But I would heheheheheheheeh

 Anyhoo, drill batteries can be rebuilt and for considerably cheaper than buying factory batteries.
  Stronger batteries for a much lower price. Its not -that- bad a job.

But even the best batteries are invariably weak or dead when the chips are down.

  What I use most, and need more and better of, are small 110v drills.
A good 3000rpm drill can be had easy enough.  And really crappy oversized plastic 1500's are available easy too.
 But a good small 1000rpm 3/8" drill, that is fairly lightweight but no shortage of torque?
 More of these I am having trouble locating. 
 
Keep your eyes peeled? Everyone made them once.   
 1000rpm more or less, 4 or 5 amps would be ideal, and as small and light as triple reduction drills allow.
I need a couple spares.

  I am kind of glad sometimes I grew up before battery tools were introduced. 
  yours Scott
 
   

I have a half inch millwakee magnum, and a 3/8 millwakee. Oh an of course the big old millwakee whole hog but most jobs she stays in the case.

I recomend a millwakee for a drill. I would check this one out. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200408313_200408313

[Branson]

I was given a Milwaukee 1/2 inch magnum, one of those with a detachable cord.  But no cord.  I found cords online, but $30 seems a little steep.  Any ideas where I could find one for less?

Scott, how do you rebuild a battery?

For slow, heavy drilling, I've got my old 1/2 inch Thor, which runs at 400 rpm and cannot be stopped or slowed down.

[scottg]

I was given a Milwaukee 1/2 inch magnum, one of those with a detachable cord.  But no cord.  I found cords online, but $30 seems a little steep.  Any ideas where I could find one for less?

Scott, how do you rebuild a battery?

  First I save old cords from burnt out tool that are good.  Finding a match for your Milwaukee you can just slide on for less than retail? Will likely not happen. But you can open the case and do a little plastic surgery on the handle, and splice on any old Sears or B&D or whatever that still has its strain relief block/connector.  It won't be detachable, but too bad. heehehehe

 Rebuilding a battery is not that hard.
Shop for, any buy, enough sub c batteries. 
When you begin to look, you will see many tools come with 1200 to 1500 (milli amp hour) batteries. Replacement sub c's you can get all the way to 2900mah. This is near double the power the tool came with new, also double what a factory replacement has.
 
   Any battery you buy will be coming from Hong Kong where the big factories are.  There are no US battery makers left. Eliminate some of the middlemen and buy closer to direct.

Be sure to order batteries with tabs!!! You cannot solder the little tabs on yourself!!!

  Here are 12 NI-CD (ni-cad) 2500mah batteries (with tabs) for $17 (shipping included!). This will rebuild a 14.4v tool.
(Take any voltage written on the tool and divide by 1.2 to get the proper number of batteries for your own tool. )

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-x-Sub-C-SubC-1-2V-2500mAh-Ni-Cd-Rechargeable-Battery-/270859955003?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item3f1082eb3b

   These are 2500 mah so roughly 75% stronger than what your tool came with.

  Take you old battery apart. There will be 4 small screws holding the case together.
Look over the battery pack well and copy it.
  Arrange your new batteries in the exact same way. Each tab connects to its neighbor the same as your old pack.
I like to stand the old and new side by side and cross check as I work. 
You may have a long jumper you need to cut off the old pack but you'll have enough tabs to make up when you solder it up.
 A little tape will hold your new batteries in a block shape while you work.

  Take any soldering iron and solder them together.  I use good old lead solder (60/40 is common) but use whatever you like. I recommend extra flux, always.
   Nobody puts enough flux inside solder for me, I don't care whose it is.  I get Nocorode solder flux and brush it on every joint.
  When you have enough flux you can substitute solid wire solder if you like. Its cheaper.
 
 That's it. Clean up extra flux with a clean cloth and re-assemble your battery pack.
 The first time you charge and use it, you will be totally blown away how much power your old tool has!
     yours Scott
   
 

[Stoney]

WOW

[RedVise]

 Rebuilding a battery is not that hard.
  [/quote]

So the Wood guy, and I mean THE Wood guy, schools us on battery rebuilds ??

Best forum community on the Net !!  Excellent, practical write up, Thanks.

Brian L.

[Branson]

WOW

Yeah!  WOW me too!