Author Topic: Hand Planes  (Read 324665 times)

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Offline Northwoods

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #945 on: April 03, 2019, 09:29:14 PM »
What a beauty.
I agree with your comment on garage sales, but there are often glorious exceptions.
The ORIGINAL Northwoods.

Offline Jim C.

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #946 on: April 03, 2019, 09:50:38 PM »
Hi Northwoods,

It’s absolutely the best plane I’ve ever come across at a garage sale.  Not just based on its condition, but also its uniqueness.  While a #10 1/2 isn’t super rare, its’s not a plane I’d expect to see at suburban garage sale.  Many years ago, I found a pretty nice user quality #15 block plane at a garage sale.  I wasn’t as surprised to find that one.  It was a pretty common block plane at a garage sale.  Not a big deal.  I guess you never know until you stop and take a look.

Jim C.
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Offline p_toad

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #947 on: April 03, 2019, 10:06:42 PM »
you're killing me.   I almost never stop at yard sales...mostly gave up on them years ago because i don't need more "stuff" at home (or course that's not really true or i wouldn't be at the local Restore all the time).   :tongue:

Nice find.  Thanks for the pictures; especially the blade.  :smiley:

Offline Jim C.

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #948 on: April 04, 2019, 09:23:56 AM »
Hi p,

I’m sorry this has become a painful event!  If you’d like me to start featuring more planes with no real story behind them other than, “Bought this plane at the auction on blah blah blah” or “Got this plane on eBay.” I can do that too!  I’m not always sure those features are the most interesting to read.  I personally like writing about the “back story planes” more than the “no story planes.”  I’ll try to mix it up a little.  I promise, the next plane I feature will be no frills.   :smiley:

Jim C.
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Offline Bill Houghton

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #949 on: April 04, 2019, 09:27:55 AM »
Funny, I kind of like finding a previous owner's initials on a plane; gives me a feeling of connecting to its history, and reason to think that it was probably treated well for at least part of its life.  I'm just selling, elsewhere, a No. 2 on which a previous owner proudly engraved his name (Jim Ford) and union local (222).  I couldn't find a relevant union of that number listed on Google; I guess it must have merged with another local at some point.

Offline Jim C.

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #950 on: April 04, 2019, 06:55:14 PM »
Hi Bill,

Initials on a plane aren’t necessary a deal killer in my book.  The old wood body planes frequently are found with names and initials of previous owners stamped onto their ends.  They do add a little history to a plane, particularly if you know whose initials they are.  Initials stamped on cast iron planes, when applied carefully and in a discreet location, don’t detract too much from the plane or its value. If the plane is a “user” I don’t think it matters at all.  From a collector’s point of view, well, not having them on a plane is probably better. When I bought that #10 1/2, I didn’t notice the initials until I got home.  Funny thing is the initials are on both sides of the plane in the same place.  As you can see, they’re carefully applied and neat, but if given a choice, I’d rather not have them on the plane.  Had I seen them when I was at the garage sale, I’m pretty sure I would have still bought the plane.

Many, many years ago, I was at a tool meet looking for Bedrocks.  I was going after a #607 and found one in really great user condition.  It was appropriately priced, but I wanted to think about it and look around a little more. Well, I came across another guy who had several Bedrocks for sale.  Practically every one was engraved with large “H W” letters in the japanning right behind the tote.  He had a #607 for sale that was priced significantly below the other #607 I had seen earlier.  To make a long story short, I bought the “H W” engraved #607.  I brought it home, tuned it up, and NEVER used that plane.  Those extra large initials, while very neatly applied with a Dremel most likely, made me nuts.  I absolutely couldn’t wait to dump that plane.  I wanted it out of my shop.   I eventually came across a new woodworker and very gladly donated it.  You’re probably thinking, “Wow, this guy has issues.”  What can I say?

Jim C.
« Last Edit: November 16, 2019, 07:28:30 PM by Jim C. »
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Offline Bill Houghton

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #951 on: April 04, 2019, 09:35:35 PM »
No, I say vive la différence!

Offline Northwoods

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #952 on: April 05, 2019, 01:19:57 PM »
Holy Cow!  Look at the third page of this offering on thebay.
In 1934, a Stanley #1 could be had for $2.80.  That's $52.47 in 2018 dollars.  I think the #1 beat inflation quite handily.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151560304156 
The ORIGINAL Northwoods.

Offline Northwoods

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #953 on: April 05, 2019, 02:17:59 PM »
Speaking of garage sales and the chances of striking it rich, today was that day for me.

This was the second day of a sale in Lawrence, Kansas, and I collected:

HSB REV-O-NOC transitional plane in perfect condition
5/16" through 1" set of Plomb combination wrenches, perfect in chrome
Blue Point OEX 20 5/8" combination wrench
3/8" by 5/16" and 7/16" by 3/8" Plomb open end wrenches, perfect in chrome
7/16" by 3/8" Plomb box end wrench in plain steel
15/16" Proto Los Angeles combination wrench in plain steel
19/32" by 9/16" American Steel & Stamping Co, Chicago open end wrench
Craftsman underlined and Craftsman underlined Vanadium, both 5/16" by 1/4", perfect in chrome
four Bonney Zenel open end wrenches, all 7/16" or under
five-piece Herbrand Obstructo "VAN CHROME" set in sizes 3/8" through 5/8"


And I have an estate sale with multi-planes lined up for tomorrow. 

Good times.
The ORIGINAL Northwoods.

Offline Jim C.

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #954 on: April 05, 2019, 04:11:31 PM »
Holy Cow!  Look at the third page of this offering on thebay.
In 1934, a Stanley #1 could be had for $2.80.  That's $52.47 in 2018 dollars.  I think the #1 beat inflation quite handily.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151560304156

If I only had a time machine!
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Offline Jim C.

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #955 on: April 05, 2019, 04:15:02 PM »
Speaking of garage sales and the chances of striking it rich, today was that day for me.

This was the second day of a sale in Lawrence, Kansas, and I collected:

HSB REV-O-NOC transitional plane in perfect condition..........

And I have an estate sale with multi-planes lined up for tomorrow. 

Good times.

I hope you’ll post a few pictures of the planes you’ve been buying at the sales!

Jim C.
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Offline Jim C.

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #956 on: April 07, 2019, 07:09:36 PM »
Okay, I promised p_toad my next hand plane feature would spare him any agony and be “no frills.”  There’s no great story to this one.  I bought it from a seller I occasionally buy from on eBay.  He typically lists his planes with two options; “Buy it Now” or “Make an Offer.”  I made an offer, he countered, I countered his counter, he accepted.  That was it.  I bought the plane.

Stanley #10 1/2C:

If you’ve been following along, you’re probably thinking, “Hey, that’s the plane Jim just featured last week.  (See page 63, reply 941)  For the most part it is.  The only real difference between the two is that the #10 ½ I showed you last week had a smooth sole.  The plane depicted below has a corrugated sole.  We’ve seen that on MANY different Stanley bench plane models.  As a matter of fact, most of the Stanley bench plane models were produced with a smooth sole and a corrugated sole.  Generally speaking, the corrugated versions are a little more scarce, and in some cases, were produced for shorter periods of time.  In this particular instance, while the #10 ½ was produced between 1885 and 1964, the #10 1/2C was manufactured from 1902 to 1917.  It’s a tough one to find in any condition.  Consequently what I’ve found over the years of collecting is that scarcity does play a role in my decision to buy a less than perfect example of a plane.  Without getting into too much detail, this one of those planes, and I will go into the details in my next post.

As for the #10 1/2C and its functions/features, well, everything I said about the #10 ½ pretty much applies here too.  There you have it.  Short and sweet!!

Jim C.         
« Last Edit: April 07, 2019, 08:45:57 PM by Jim C. »
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Offline Jim C.

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #957 on: April 07, 2019, 07:10:14 PM »
Here's a few more photos of the Stanley #10 1/2C.  The last two pictures show the Stanley #10 1/2 (background) and 10 1/2C (foreground).

Jim C.
« Last Edit: April 07, 2019, 07:13:23 PM by Jim C. »
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Offline Jim C.

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #958 on: April 08, 2019, 04:51:56 PM »
During the last week or so, I featured a couple Stanley bench rabbet planes, the #10 1/2 and #10 1/2C.  By chance, I'd say both were probably manufactured between 1907 and 1912.  As I mentioned in prior posts pertaining to the planes, the #10 1/2 was in production for about eighty years, while the #10 1/2C was only in production for about fifteen years and went out of production over one hundred years ago.  That being said, I would categorized the #10 1/2C as being relatively scarce.  It's a tough plane to find in any condition.  In the last twenty years of collecting, I've only seen a handful of them.  While definitely not the most rare of all Stanley hand planes, if you're a serious collector, it's probably one to consider acquiring when you see it.  The odds are you might not see it again any time soon.  That "buy it now" strategy does present quandary of sorts.  As a collector, a plane's condition and completeness are paramount to almost everything.  We collect for the love of collecting, but like it or not, at some point we, or our heirs, will liquidate some or all of our collections.  I said it before and I'll say it again; I believe that the best condition tools will mostly hold their value over the long haul.  So what happens when you find a rare tool in less than top collector quality condition?  There's some conflict between scarcity and top shelf quality.

Under most situations, particularly when considering a common plane to collect (not necessarily to use), I'd say, "Get the best one you can find, make sure it's undamaged, and check to see if it's complete and all of its parts are vintage correct."  If the plane doesn't score high marks in all those criteria, pass on it.  Basically, "do your homework."  I've spouted that line throughout the thread.  So now you've come across that rare plane, but its condition is more like "user" quality, and perhaps some of its parts aren't vintage correct, or maybe there's some damage.  How far will you lower your "collector standards?"  Well, I've found that I will be less critical of a scarce plane to a certain point.  I will not forgive serious damage.  Examples would include heavy rust and deep pitting, casting cracks, chips and associated repairs.  I'll typically reject a plane that's missing parts which are specialized and/or unique to the plane itself.  Some of those parts are difficult to find and expensive when you do find them.  In some cases, like both #10 1/2 bench rabbet planes for instance, finding the correct cutting iron with the vintage appropriate Stanley logo could be tricky at best and a possible deal killer.  Where I seem to soften a little is when a rare plane may have suffered minor damage to castings (scratches, nicks, etc.) and similar minor damage to associated vintage correct parts.  The Stanley #10 1/2C I recently featured is a very good example of a relatively scarce plane that I had to be less critical of only because of its rarity.

Below, I've included a few photos of parts found on the #10 1/2 and #10 1/2C.  In all instances, the #10 1/2 parts are on the left and the #10 1/2C parts are on the right.  The first two photos depict the lever caps from both planes.  Notice how the leading edge corners on the #10 1/2C cap are clearly chipped!  The cap was dropped, possibly more than once, and the corners cracked off.  Hardly "collector quality."  The next photo shows the rear totes from both planes.  Look really close.  See the crack in the in the #10 1/2C tote?  While both parts are replaceable, I still have to find (and pay for) vintage correct replacements.  Now look at the main body castings.  See the difference between the two.  While the #10 1/2 has a nice even patina, the #10 1/2C has some obvious scratches and light pitting.  Unfortunately, the corrugations on the sole of the main casting make the plane scarce.  It really can't be replaced.  The condition of #10 1/2C is far from collector quality, but its scarcity has overshadowed some of its apologies, all of which I was and still am willing to accept.  Now it has occurred to me that since all the parts are interchangeable, I could swap the lever caps and totes, particularly since both were manufactured during the same time period.  In terms of vintage correctness, they're a match.  Still, I have some insane sense of obligation to both planes.  They're both one hundred years old and from the looks of things, all of their parts appear to be original to the planes themselves.  While that may just be wishful thinking on my part, based on the facts and circumstances surrounding my garage sale found #10 1/2, there's no doubt in my mind that the main casting and all of its associated parts have been together since it left the factory.  After all these years, I'm not going to separate them. 

Jim C.                     
« Last Edit: April 08, 2019, 09:45:35 PM by Jim C. »
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Offline skipskip

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Re: Hand Planes
« Reply #959 on: April 14, 2019, 09:50:11 PM »
This thread has motivated me to  get a plane to restore.

So,at today's flea I bought a rare Stanley bullnose plane , tho I am not sure what number it is.

It is very early as the blade says Ohio, so it must have been before they moved to Connecticut.

It even comes with an extra blade, that is almost new.

I am going to very carefully clean it and  get it back to as close to new condition as I can.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Skip


apr077 by Skip Albright, on Flickr


apr073 by Skip Albright, on Flickr

apr074 by Skip Albright, on Flickr

apr076 by Skip Albright, on Flickr

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