Not too long ago, someone asked me (with my wife standing right there) if I really used all those hand planes in my collection. “Well, of course I do! Why else would I have them?” I’ve been floating that story to my better half for years. I think she’s wise to it, but figures I could be involved in worse things. So my answer is still the same….. “Well of course I use all the planes!” Anyway, since I do like using the planes when I’m engaged in some kind of wood working, I thought I might show you how I use them for the simple task of flattening a short board.
I wanted to use this short piece of maple to make a pizza cutter. It was an easy project and I had this cut off piece of maple that was destined for the fireplace. Still, I hate to waste wood, so I hung onto it thinking some day I’d use it. The big problem with it was that it was badly cupped and had a little twist. Looking at it standing on end, the defects are plainly evident. So how do you fix it? This was clearly a job for a few hand planes. What I had to do was flatten one side by hand so it could be laid flat on the bed of a motor powered thickness planer, which would make quick work of surfacing the opposite face making it flat and co-planer to the face I flattened with planes.
When I have a cupped board like this, I usually hand plane the convex side, leaving the concave face down. Clamping the board securely is important. Since I start this process with a #40 scrub plane, anything less that a tightly held work piece is unacceptable. Recall that a scrub plane takes a fairly thick shaving, removing a lot of stock quickly. The work must be secure in order to stand up to the force of the cut. Starting in one corner of the board, and angling the plane at about forty degrees, I’ll start removing the apex of convex section of the board going from one end to the other. Once I’ve gotten to the end of the board making several forty degree passes, I’ll turn the plane around and move back down the board again making forty degree passes that run opposite to those made in the first pass down the board. It might sound complicated, but it’s not. What I’m trying to do is knock down that high spot so that at least two thirds of the centerline of the board are flat and will run through the powered thickness planer without rocking and then creating a board where the two faces are not co-planer. As one can see, the scrub plane makes quick work of knocking down that high spot that ran down the centerline of the board.
Now with a much flatter surface, the scalloped face left by the scrub plane can be initially smoothed by the jack plane. Once again, angling the jack plane at about forty degrees, I’ll plane out the scallops going one way down the board. When I get to the end of the board, I turned the plane and angled it about forty degrees in the opposite direction, just like I did with the scrub plane. The formerly convex section is almost gone and the board is almost flat enough for the thickness planer. I occasionally check my progress by laying the hand planed surface on a table saw top to see if the board still rocks. If it does, I must identify the high and low spots and make the adjustments to eliminate them. Once I’m close to having that one side of the board flat, I’ll finish with a #4 ½ smoother. The board is now ready for the thickness planer. Laying the hand planed face of the board on the bed of the thickness planer, only a few passes through the machine will level off the concave face of the board making both faces co-planer and project ready.