Tool Talk
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: HeelSpur on July 05, 2014, 06:37:53 AM
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Only markings are M.2.6
The jaws don't close tight either.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j368/wvabe/003-45.jpg)
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j368/wvabe/004-45.jpg)
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Yes.
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Configuration is right.
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yes
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Had the feeling but wanted to make sure, thanks guys.
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Funny; no service station could have run without these in my youth, because the nuts on the clamps were invariably corroded to unwrenchability, a problem compounded by past hamfisted yahoos who thought nuts were supposed to be round. But modern batteries aren't surrounded by a cloud of corrosive gasses, apparently, so the clamps last a long time. I haven't used the pair I own once.
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Funny; no service station could have run without these in my youth, because the nuts on the clamps were invariably corroded to unwrenchability, a problem compounded by past hamfisted yahoos who thought nuts were supposed to be round. But modern batteries aren't surrounded by a cloud of corrosive gasses, apparently, so the clamps last a long time. I haven't used the pair I own once.
My truck is a 2005 Ford F150 Supercrew. 170, 000 miles and only had to replace tires, brake pads, one tune up at 140,000 miles (manufacturer recommended), oil changes, and 2 batteries.
I swapped the 2nd battery out 3 weeks ago, but the battery was probably okay. A couple of days after replacing the battery well (Mrs. Chilly and me) were at the bank.
We leave the bank and try to start the truck and nothing not even a click
We called our youngest and asked him to bring jumpers. He takes really good care of us and is there in 20 minutes. While waiting for him, we went into the Ace hardware store. I stayed in the store while Mrs. C and Junior run back to the truck to jump it. He opens the hood and finds the stock metal connector on the positive side has corroded through and broke off, taking the wires with it. Our boy touched the half back to the post and the truck starts. He figures the truck will take us home on the alternator alone so he makes sure the wire end is safe and closes the hood. Mrs. C gets halfway across the parking lot and the truck stalls. (The parking lot is a block long and I am at the other end, on the phone with them.)
They come get me and the stuff I had purchased (including the battery clamp and some tools.) My son is an electrician, so he is elected to fix this project.
In addition to the terminal adapter this cost me a new 1/4" Craftsman socket set. I had to go that route because all the other tools that could fo the job were not domestic. I also bought my son a new set of Klein linesman pliers (over $35, Holy Cow!) His tools were at a jobsite and he said his old pair (Greenlees) were worn out.
Bottom line is I would not have guessed that the first thing to go on my truck would be a battery clamp.
And another thing, why didn't my truck run on alternator power?
And yet another thing, how come when we start the truck now randomly the clock and other accessories reset? Only some of the time, usually they work as expected. I better check the fuses and my sons wiring job.
Chilly
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>how come when we start the truck now randomly the clock and other accessories reset?
Check the ground connections on the fender also, they are probably just as rusted, you may have also burnt one off if the alternator wire was flaky, current will take odd paths when the battery cables get flaky some times.
>why didn't my truck run on alternator power?
Because the alternator needs a touch of battery current to excite the field, and it doesn't put out enough at idle to run everything all the time, if it looses the voltage for just an instant, it all stops..
That was the one and only good thing about generators, they would usually self excite from the residual magnetism in the case..
> 2005 Ford F150
Test the alternator, they are virtually guaranteed to fail on these vehicles, I have replaved the alternators on every single ford van we have at the shop now...The back bearing fails and the rotor smashes into the case shorting out the internal wires..
If it died, and you replace it, you may want to go with the higher output one that normally comes with the truck when you get the tow package, but be aware the pully is different and has to be transplanted..
>the first thing to go on my truck would be a battery clamp.
Cut them off and put the nice brass ones on,(the boat places have them) the stamped clamps are garbage, your cranking current will be better also.
NB: Bad grounds on the battery can damage other things, including the alternator, so check *both* cables from end to end
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Thanks Rusty!
I have the factory tow package, so I probably have the right pulley.
Larry
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Bad grounds on the battery can damage other things, including the alternator, so check *both* cables from end to end
Good info right here.
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many moons ago, I got home with a pair of vice-grips as a clamp, was worried that it would vibrate loose, but was lucky that it didn't.
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I was taught in tech school that an alternator needed some voltage from the battery to operate. Unlike a generator. Then I found that often a high milage alternator has developed some residual magnetism and will keep charging without a battery. How much? I never measured the output during this phenomenon. Last case I saw was a Dr. stopped by with his older Ford Explorer, ignition switch broke, and could not shut it off. I disconnected the battery explaining that the engine would now die. Wrong. Had to disconnect the main feed wire from the alternator. It is possible that the alt. was putting out enough to make the engine run, but perhaps not the AC, or brake lights, power windows and such drew more current which killed the engine. I am very disappointed that the manufacturers are using the cheap stamped clamps. If a battery leaks at all, it is toast. Plus they are difficult to get loose from the post without damage.