Tool Talk
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Soupy on August 24, 2014, 07:48:07 AM
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Hello!
I'm "Steve" from Connecticut. I'm 57 and still learning new things. Imagine that?!
I have "used" Air Compressors for YEARS, in manufacturing applications, but never bought one of my own.
When it came to doing the air in my vehicle tires (truck, car, motorcycle, wife's wheelchair) I always went to the local gas station.
Since more and more, I'm seeing less and less available "Air" stations at gas stations these days, I finally said "the heck with it; I'm buying an Air Compressor."
I found a Husky, 8 Gallon Air Compressor (TA-2350?) at Home Depot for $100.00, and bought it. I also bought some Air Line Hose, and an in-line gauge.
(I also use an external gauge to "verify.")
I put it through its "Break In" and used it, and it works fine.
Question: I have an unheated, uninsulated garage. My Air Compressor is in that garage. I live in an area that can get some pretty severe (not Alaska, but almost) "Winters." What should my approach to using the Air Compressor in the Winter, be? Don't use it? (It's electric, by the way, with a fillable oil resevoir), Use it anyway?
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Hello there your air compressor should work in cold I have a ranch in n.dak. we use them all winter long very seldom will the compressor not work if you turn it on and just hear it humming not turning over then turn it off right away but usually they start right up some of the very high compression air compressor don't like the cold but your compressor should be ok just remember in the cold they make lots of moisture in the tank you will need to drain the water out of the tank once in a while for it will rust out the bottom of the tank in time we have a old huskie on the ranch that we have had for years it small and portable and it works great for airing up tires
have a great day
LEACH.
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There are air compressor models with a "cold start". I believe it allows the driver exhaust to somehow bypass and help warm the compressor. Not real clear on the details, but I have a Senco that has the feature and it is handy on -30 degree days
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..............................just remember in the cold they make lots of moisture in the tank you will need to drain the water out of the tank once in a while for it will rust out the bottom of the tank.....have a great day....
Question: Does it matter what kind of air hose is involved? I have a yellow (Rubber/Plastic?) one. Also, each time I use the Compressor, I open the drain valve on the bottom of the tank when I'm done. Will that suffice to get the water out of the tank?
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That should do it.
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The practice at my grandpa's shop, with the big air, was to bleed down and drain at end of day....leaving the drain valve open throughout the downtime. It served him well, and has me the same.
I use air daily, and its a critical function. For peace of mind, I always place a TEE and a 10-12" nipple pointing down just before the outlet. Put a drain valve there. There is a commercial "drain pot" that does the same. And then there are inline air filters of all varieties.
For the homeowner, I'd advise drain it on use and leave the drain open while not in use. Oil your air tools every use if they take oil (some don't).
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.......Oil your air tools every use if they take oil (some don't)...
Since the only air tool I use is an in-line air pressure gauge that doesn't use oil, I guess I 'm "good."
Don't know how likely that in-line gauge will function in the extreme cold however. I suppose I could at least take the Gauge inside, and only take it outside when I'm going to use it.
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Depends what type of "Plastic rubber" air hose you have it might not like to un-coil when it gets real cold. Just take it easy so you don't put a kink in it.
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Here in Denver it isn't ss cold as Northern areas, lowest expected is -20º or -30º.
I've always left my compressors outside and never had a problem. Moisture is even less of a problem during the winter.
Everyone's advice is great IMNSHO.
I do work in the Mountains too. We often install dry pipe sprinkler systems in areas subject to freezing. I've learned a few good practices for the cold.
If going from a warm area to a cold one (for example a hested equipment room to a freezer) you will get condensation in the pipe where it enters the cold area. Install some unions to take the pipe out, or to inspect inside it, just before you go into the wall, and just after you are inside the space. The pipe can clog with ice there. If posdible, tske the supply sir from the cold area, it will have less condensation in it.
If using the air for around the house regularly (5 or 6 times a week or more) but not every day, I would leave the dystem pressured up. It is easier on your equipment to leave everything pressured up rather than filling each use. You can still drain down under pressure, it is actually pretty fast if you do it each time. If your compressor is cycling when not in use find and fix the leak. I know a lot of homeowners who bleed their compressor after each use but there is no sound reason to do it.
If it is too cold you can still fill car tires - just use tank air but don't refill until it warms up a bit. Or alternatively heat your compressor. Don't worry about the tank. It doesn't care about the cold weather.
If you live in a high humidity area my advice probably isn't very good.
Chilly
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I'm only using the tank perhaps once every couple of weeks. Not high volume use by ANY measure.
The "hose" being affected by the cold IS a concern, I agree. It WON'T likely cooperate in the cold. I'm tempted to keep the whole hole (rolled up of course) hose and in-line gauge in the house (in the basement somewhere) until I need it.
You made ONE comment that I would like to particularly explore. Chililulu, You said, " .....It is easier on your equipment to leave everything pressured up......"
Could you elaborate on that? Why is this true?
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Because it doesn't have to run to fill up. If equipment time is measured in hours of operation, why run any more than you need to?
Why drain out the pressure? There is a pressure relief valve that bleeds the air off the compressor automatically, so that it doesn't start under load.
The only problem is if there are leaks, then they should be fixed instead of ignored.
Chilly
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To each their own! I get very serious about condensation being routed through expensive tools. Condensation occurs as much with vapor being compressed to it's saturation limit, as it does with vapor cooling.
Why drain out the pressure?
1) To equalize the pressure, temperature, and humidity between the tank and the atmosphere; therefore minimizing condensation that would otherwise just sit in the tank until next use.
2) To minimize the risk of failures that might have your compressor in melt-down mode running to maintain a pressure it'd never achieve (because it's leaking and you're gone).
There is a pressure relief valve that bleeds the air off the compressor automatically, so that it doesn't start under load.
Isn't a pressure relief valve on a compressor a SAFETY device designed to prevent pressure from exceeding a design rating? That is to say, to prevent the system pressure from rising above a fixed set-point design, and stated, as "Max Pressure"?
I would argue it's more the role of a pressure SWITCH to maintain upper and lower pressure limits for the driver's start/stop; but not for purposes of ensuring no load under start, more so for simply maintaining pressure within operating limits (e.g. minimum 90, maximum 120).
I have witnessed a $2M research project to determine if 36,574 computers should remain ON or be left OFF during non-production hours. SERIOUSLY. It's a debate at least as old as me. There is still no consensus on the issue.
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I think there MIGHT be 2 different types of pressure relief switches/devices being referred to in this thread.
1. A manufacturer supplied safety pressure relief valve required so the tank isn't over pressured. It is usually a little spring loaded vent that is set into the tank. It can also sometimes be manually pulled to relieve tank pressure, most that I have seen aren't placed to be able to use as a drain as discussed for draining moisture/water from the tank. (Required for when the one below fails)
2. A automatic shutoff switch that shuts the small portable compressors off when the tank pressure reaches the designed unit pressure.
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As is the case with mine.......
There is the main valve, under the tank, that can be opened to release the air in the tank. Then there is a safety valve which, as had been stated, is designed to "blow" (if you will) if the pressure in the tank exceeds maximum parameters.
Not for nothing, but......when I shut down the Compressor, and perhaps unnecessarily, I pull the "blow" valve, and then I open the valve under the tank. I also bleed any air from the line by activating the tool trigger, before disconnecting the tool and the air line from the quick-connect on the Compressor.
Thanks for all the terrific feedback by all of you. When I join a new Forum, I'm never quite sure how much activity I will find there. It's encouraging to see all the timely activity in here that I've seen so far!!!!
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>2 different types of pressure relief switches
Chilly is referring to a third type of valve, an unloader valve, it dumps the pressure between the compressor head and the tank inlet to give the compressor time to get up to speed.
Regardless of leaving the tank full or empty, I would turn it OFF when you are not around....
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I have found that the black rubber Craftsman air hoses from Sears have lasted me the longest and are flexible in the winter.
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>2 different types of pressure relief switches
Chilly is referring to a third type of valve, an unloader valve, it dumps the pressure between the compressor head and the tank inlet to give the compressor time to get up to speed.
Regardless of leaving the tank full or empty, I would turn it OFF when you are not around....
Right on!
Chilly
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I have found that the black rubber Craftsman air hoses from Sears have lasted me the longest and are flexible in the winter.
I've been tempted to buy an alternate roll of tubing. "Rubber" eh!?
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Wait and see how it acts when cold or if you have a big enough freezer stick it in the freezer and see what happens. Just the hose.
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The yellow and orange thin hoses are usually roofers hoses, they have a hard protective coating so they don't get cut and don't snag, but they are not flexible. For shop/home use the softer wider hoses are more fun. HF, oddly, sells a decent rubber air hose (Goodyear rubber)