Tool Talk
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: 1930 on August 25, 2014, 05:41:40 AM
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Any way of telling which of these are for wood and which for metals? Id hate to ruin a good saw.
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And what the heck is this? Some sort of hard plastic or rubber.
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Tried looking up what numbers were on the package thru Sears but no luck, any ideas what these are made for, Im guessing they are a cutting tool.
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Whats the deal with these, wood metal, fine finishing, hogging out?
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These would surely be rasps for working on an air tool and Im going to guess they are wood only?
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The Sears packaged items look like grinding stones used in a Dremel type tool. The picture in the next post appear to be the same or maybe for a drill application depending on the arbor size.
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Not a definitive answer but I've used hole saws more times for cutting through sheet metal than I have wood. I am not aware of any special blades for a specific material. With a steady hand you can make a decently clean cut in sheet metal.
The red rubber piece might be an abrasive type polishing tool. Try spinning it up against some different metals and see.
The rotary rasps - wood - but could be used on auto body filler or for shaping plastic.
Al
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wood vs metal? well I have a old set that are thinner they do not cut metal aka steel very well. The metal cutting ones Lenox brand they are much beefier, could even be bi-metal.
you have some rotary rasps and other goodies!
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Yeah, the rasps are probably a keeper. The red cylindrical think might be for a sandpaper drum.
The stones mounted on a shaft should go in the dumpster, they are dangerous junk ;P (IMHO)
Or at least wear eye protection and gloves for when the stone gets hot, the solder melts, and the stone flys across the room...
I know of no way to tell if a random hole saw is/was hardened enough to cut steel. Even the ones intended to cut steel don't do so for very long. I would probably assume wood, tho wood tools often work fine on aluminium and brass....
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The way you tell is you have to go very slow. If the bit cuts into metal you wilk know. Hard to cut sheet metal though. Use a wood backer, and do not holt the sheet with your hand. Make sure that when the bit grabs the metal and it spins (it will spin) that all body parts are clear of its path. I just clamp shert metal to wood. I still stay out of the way.
We use those hole saws on metal all the time. When we need to add a line to an existing pipe we drill a saddle fitting. All our trucks go through a lot of these. There is a kind that has carbide teeth spaced pretty far apart. They look like they're not for metal, but they are. They cost 40 or 50 bucks, but they cut great and last forever.
The arbors are sold seperate from the hole saws, and you can get new 1/4" pilot bits also. Don't use a regular drill bit, the pilot bits have a notch or a flat ground into their side for a set screw. The arbors come in 2 main sizes, and a couple of other weird small sizes.
I think the thin type oldgoaly mentioned are a thin nested set, (guess.) You can sometimes tell by the teeth, if it looks thin and closely spaced I probably wouldn't use it on metal. In fact I would use the regular hole saws like you have there. Another thin hole saw has a hole with two flat and two round sides. These are cheap hole saws. They will cut metal, but not much. Im not too impressed eith their wood cutting either.
The packaged bits are for dremel type tools. You can use them on anything, but don't go too fast. Add water if cutting stone or glass. Those that have 1/4" shafts are more for die grinders. I wouldn't use them on a hand power drill. My dremel motor has a foot pedal that controls speed. Start out slower than you think you need to ho, you can speed up when you are more proficient.
I think Rusty got some crappy ones, there are a lot of those out there - even the diamond sintered ones sometimes.
Those rasps are great. You can use them on plastic and drywall too. Stone carvers use them on softer material. They are not for air tools, more for vsriable speed drills. Again, no need to go quick at first. Ive used them on aluminum snd clear plastic. If you go fast at all on plastic it melts and gums up the bit. Go really slow on plastic. Wear eye protection with all these bits, they fling little sharp bits worse than a grinder sometimes.
Chilly
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Thanks everyone for the information, very informative. I know that the local hardware store ( are they still called that ? ) have the holes saws for wood and metal and Id imagine that using one tempered for wood would not last long in metal so that is why I asked.