I need to make a clutch cable for my truck, we all have seen the steel cables with the barbs on the ends that I am assuming are squeezed on with some special tool, can anyone tell me what this tool is and where to get a couple of these barbs.
I dont plan on starting my own clutch cable buisness but I have asked around locally and gone on-line and cannot find anyone that makes these period so I need to make one withouth breaking the bank.
Any better suggestions would be appreciated, I pretty much wasted the long weekend trying to get a universal flexable cable to work that I bought at Napa but because the ends ( both ends ) are not flexible but instead stainless steel solid rods ( maybe it is designed for marine applications ) it will not work as there has to be flexability on both ends because of the ark of travel I have at the pedal and at the throwout fork.
Cable that I have now is 8 feet long and it is just enough I belive even if I cut the stainless ends off of it just until I got to the steel flex cable inside and hopefully re-attach something ( like the barb I mentioned possibly ) and then start all over again on mating these ends to the truck.
Yers ago I repaired motorcycle cables by finding the correct ball or barrel and silver soldering them on. Nothing else seemed to work well or last very long.
Video- http://youtu.be/F-gY27LTU2c
Lowes here sells a swage tool that squeezes lead pieces on cable to make eyes.
might work for you, but I cant visualize what you are building. have a pic you can show us?
Quote from: Papaw on May 29, 2012, 09:03:59 PM
Yers ago I repaired motorcycle cables by finding the correct ball or barrel and silver soldering them on. Nothing else seemed to work well or last very long.
Video- http://youtu.be/F-gY27LTU2c
Thanks, yes that is my biggest concern, real stiff clutch in this truck, lot of force to move it, dont want it coming apart.
Quote from: skipskip on May 29, 2012, 09:21:05 PM
Lowes here sells a swage tool that squeezes lead pieces on cable to make eyes.
might work for you, but I cant visualize what you are building. have a pic you can show us?
Will post pic tonight, thanks for asking, you are right, that would help
1930, here is a crude sketch of how we used to fix the cables on motorcycles when I used to do play at hillclimbing(hard on clutch levers, handlebars, and knees!
What's the year, make and model of the truck?
1
2
3
I know the pict. are not the greatest, best I can do here. Picture 1 shows the truck, 52 F-7
Pict 2 and 3 show what I thought would work but as mentioned because both ends have no flexability and because there are defanite arcs of throw on each end all it pretty much wants to do is bind and put all sorts of strain on the firewall because that is the weakest mounting point.
The mounting bracket under the truck ( youll notice the throwout fork is not there but is sitting in the cab ) is just something I threw together and is only tacked in place. I can move that anywhere I need it.
The cable is of high quality along with its protective sheath, I am thinking I can use that cable, just need a to figure out a way to attach to steel balls maybe to each end of the cable and do away with the rigid stainless steel rods.
Then my next battle may be in having problems with not enough throw.
92-04 Mustangs ( might be off, something like that ) used a cable set-up but there fork was designed to pull the pressure plate into the clutch from the front whereas I am trying to pull the same from the rear. Wont work from the front.
I simply dont have room to use a mechanical linkage set-up unless I move the engine back a bit wich would mean starting from scratch on the engine mounts almost which I dont want to do.
At this point that is not an option, the more time I waste on figuring this out the more persistant I get on figuring it out.
I was told that early Mack trucks use a cable but no specific years were given because the guy tellin me wasnt making ten cents if he gave me that info.
If I could find a clutch cable, any clutch cable that was at least 8 feet long, 10 feet wouldnt be a problem than I will have won half the battle, I can make that work for sure, what I am trying to use was never intended as a clutch cable.
Any help as always appreciated
Quote from: lazyassforge on May 30, 2012, 09:33:08 AM
1930, here is a crude sketch of how we used to fix the cables on motorcycles when I used to do play at hillclimbing(hard on clutch levers, handlebars, and knees!
I like this, gives me more ideas and that is a help
Quote from: eddie hudson on May 30, 2012, 11:21:36 AM
What's the year, make and model of the truck?
See above, thanks
Quote from: 1930 on May 30, 2012, 07:01:13 PM
If I could find a clutch cable, any clutch cable that was at least 8 feet long, 10 feet wouldnt be a problem than I will have won half the battle, I can make that work for sure, what I am trying to use was never intended as a clutch cable.
If a dig in the iron pastures would help you I'd be happy to assist, but I need a place to start other than laying on my back with rattlesnakes/copperheads under every old truck.
Open the hoods, look down approx where the pedals are in the firewall, if you see a bunch of steel linkages than its not what I am after, if you see a hydraulic master cylinder down there than its not what I am after, if you see a cable than we need to talk.
Thanks for the offer but dont put yourself out, you have already done more for me than I would have asked. Someone here thats already messed with this will figure it out.
I almost sent you those pict to post for me tonight BTW
Lasyassforge's method will work just great. I used to do the same with the gear change cable on Vespa scooters. It is amazing how stong the soldered joint is if everything is well cleaned and fluxed.
Graeme
1930,
The early VW's used clutch cables. The cables were your standard braided steel, but both ends of the cable terminated in about 1.5" long threaded rod. The hex nuts, used at both ends, looked like a half ball bearing with a thru hole drilled to accept the threaded rod. The pedal lever and the clutch throw out lever were machined to accept the ball joint/hex nut.
I think a VW clutch cable with two nuts might get you where you need to go. You could fab up the rest (the female part of the ball joint) on your clutch pedal lever and throwout lever. The cable and nuts can probably still be had on the aftermarket.
If you are having trouble visualizing this arrangement, grab an old VW shop manuel at the library.
Hope this helps
Quote from: 1930 on May 30, 2012, 07:17:18 PM
I almost sent you those pict to post for me tonight BTW
Anytime with pictures!
I'll have a look in the VW parts pile here at home in the old barn based on Lauver's note. The only other thought I have is the early model (late 40s?) IH truck and a 55? Ford F1 at the shop. Most of the other stuff there is 60's, and later. I'll have a stroll to look but you pay for Dr. bill when I get stung, bit, or mangled :)
Quote from: lauver on May 30, 2012, 07:46:06 PM
1930,
The early VW's used clutch cables. The cables were your standard braided steel, but both ends of the cable terminated in about 1.5" long threaded rod. The hex nuts, used at both ends, looked like a half ball bearing with a thru hole drilled to accept the threaded rod. The pedal lever and the clutch throw out lever were machined to accept the ball joint/hex nut.
I think a VW clutch cable with two nuts might get you where you need to go. You could fab up the rest (the female part of the ball joint) on your clutch pedal lever and throwout lever. The cable and nuts can probably still be had on the aftermarket.
If you are having trouble visualizing this arrangement, grab an old VW shop manuel at the library.
Hope this helps
Thanks for reminding me of this, I have considered this, I was at one time a bug man and enjoy them still. I am a little concerned over the differences in pressure required between the two clutches though and that is why I guess I dismissed it but I guess I need to look into this further.
Quote from: anglesmith on May 30, 2012, 07:22:00 PM
Lasyassforge's method will work just great. I used to do the same with the gear change cable on Vespa scooters. It is amazing how stong the soldered joint is if everything is well cleaned and fluxed.
Graeme
I can weld but soldering is a problem for me, still something worth look at though
Lauver, ( or anyone ) are you aware of a bug with a heavier clutch, ( than standard ) maybe a particular series or year ?
If anyone has the bug diagram or maybe if Rusty ( or any other of you comp. gods ) has the time to post it here ( avail somewhere on-line I am sure ) so I can see ( remind myself ) how this worked and looked than that would be great.
A higher quality photo
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Misc/DSC01796.jpg)
I couldn't find a decent picture, but I did notice something, the bug clutch cable isn't a sheathed cable, it goes in a tube. Dunno if it is going to do what you want or not...
If it is, you might also look at dune buggy parts places, I saw several special clutch adaptor kits.....
VW bug cable probably wouldn't be long enough but you could try a VW van cable. They do go thru tubes but I have tack welded new tubes when converting VWs with automatic transmissions to standard.
Quote from: rusty on May 30, 2012, 09:50:02 PM
I couldn't find a decent picture, but I did notice something, the bug clutch cable isn't a sheathed cable, it goes in a tube. Dunno if it is going to do what you want or not...
If it is, you might also look at dune buggy parts places, I saw several special clutch adaptor kits.....
Thanks for looking
Quote from: Bus on May 31, 2012, 01:10:13 AM
VW bug cable probably wouldn't be longenough but you could try as VW van cable. They do go thru tubes but I have tack welded new tubes when converting VWs with automatic transmissions to standard.
Yes I thought Bus cable also and I am not worried about the tube as I can work with a fuel line or brake line to protect the cable. I guess you are sayig Bus,es also came with sticks, thats good to know.
There is a VW specialist on my way home, will start there this evening
Oily, how do you post such big pictures, when I try and post a big picture it says file to large and even then they are much smaller than some of the stuff you are posting.
I only participate on one other forum besides ( on an every day basis ) this one but I have no problems there.
If you post pictures of about 800x600, they will show up fine.
Way back in time, my brother and I put a Ford Flat head engine in a Willies Areo Coupe, we used
2 "I" bolts and a very short lenght of 1/4 inch chain, for the the clutch linkage.
The Front suspension broke before we could get it on the road. Most likely saved our lives.
Ray
Do a search for "Green Auto Parts" they have tons of NOS Ford cars & trucks parts.
I'm wondering if a farm equipment dealer might be able to supply a cable that will work. A lot of agricultural machinery uses "push-pull" control cables. Just a thought.
Did you find the cable parts you were looking for ? If not,I have alot of cable and cable fastening parts. I use them for trapping. Let me know what you need.Pm me.
Thanks for the replies, I purchased a VW Bus 1 cable last night, its a bit long at about 10 feet and its a bit smaller diam cable than I wanted to use but it will give me a bit more to play around with over the weekend.
I am interested in what you might have Ken. Pm sent
1930,
What is the distance you need to bridge your pedal assembly and your clutch throwout lever? Just looking at the photo of your truck, I can't imagine why you would need a 10' cable.
Also, a totally different approach you might want to consider for your application... hydraulics; a clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and hydraulic line. This might be the easiest installation and would give you the power you need to move your clutch throwout lever. It would also give you a light and smooth clutch pedal, a nice feature.
Might be the pictures are a little mis-leading, its a pretty good sized truck but you are right, I dont need 10 feet but the 8 foot cable I posted pictures of is just long enough so that I dont put too hard of a bind on the cable from too tight of a loop.
I thought about hydraulic, looked into it a bit but at the time I thought I could make this cable deal work for alot less money, a hydraulic set-u would cost me at least 200 bucks all day long and if I can only get the right cable deal I will have less than 20 bucks probably ( plus of course nearly 30 hours of labor/intense thinking but we can never count that :) )
Im gonna go to the somewhat local tractor store this weekend and poke around as well, If I dont have at least 50 hours in this thing I just wont feel right
>If I could find a clutch cable, any clutch cable that was at least 8 feet long
E-Brake cable....
I have run cable through a tight fitting nut then smashed the nut with a BFH and it never gave any trouble
I got to know the cable I bought at Napa this A.M. Took about 3 hours but I am quite sure now it will work, started to take photos of my mods but then of course the first time around it didnt work, second time around I got closer ect, became too confusing.
Anyway its installed and it pretty much works great, I just need to re-inforce the firewall now where it passes, clutch is so stiff it really flexes that wall, spent rest of day staring at it and trying different things, I do not want to weld to it any sort of plate because I dont want to screw up the paint so I think I have found a solution that may work with a pieces of aluminum acting as the reinforcement.
Will go to work tomm and see if I can scrounge a piece from something and then hopefully get it installed next weekend and that portion of the project will be finished for good.
I dont know how these mustangs are able to pull that fork without bending the firewall, I guess I musta missed a double plate or something when I was scrounging parts. Ive installed clutches in those things that will give your legs a work-out so there has gotta be something there.