Just a quick question as Im on my way out the door, I have a Craftsman model No 919.165610
Cant seem to get a steady enough pressure to run a grinder or DA, anyone messed with this variety compressor and is it worth me messing with any longer. Maybe I just need to keep the tank and get a different compressor.
I want to be able to do most anything I want to do at home including run a sandblaster again.
I dont mind putting some money into it to get it where it needs to be but maybe there is nothing than can help this thing do what I want it to do and I dont want to piss away any more money.
Any suggestion welcome
How 'bout some specs and photos?
I see lots of compressors and related parts on Craigslist every day. I am trying to find a replacement tank for a Sears compressor I have. Mine has a pin hole leak and so I won't use it anymore.
EvilDr235
That is an oilless compressor, in new condition it should be big enough for an air grinder, but oilless compressors have plastic follower rings, they wear out. There are reasons the old timers used oil.....
Quote from: johnsironsanctuary on June 23, 2012, 09:06:03 AM
How 'bout some specs and photos?
Im on it, I will send them to Derek, I am assuming he wont mind posting them for me
Quote from: EVILDR235 on June 23, 2012, 09:42:25 AM
I see lots of compressors and related parts on Craigslist every day. I am trying to find a replacement tank for a Sears compressor I have. Mine has a pin hole leak and so I won't use it anymore.
EvilDr235
Thats where I bough this one, my own fault maybe for not knowing what I was buying
Quote from: johnsironsanctuary on June 23, 2012, 09:06:03 AM
How 'bout some specs and photos?
Might be he will post them tonight, I have all of the covers and I removed the tube that connects one cylinder to the next just to see if I can feel what sort of air it is making, funny thing is one cylinder is making so much air I cant possibly keep it contained with my finger and the other is sucking in air.
Not sure how it works, seems like that tube I removed carries the air over to the other cylinder and from that cylinder it is forced down into the tank.
Any clarification on this would be nice.
Quote from: rusty on June 23, 2012, 09:44:17 AM
That is an oilless compressor, in new condition it should be big enough for an air grinder, but oilless compressors have plastic follower rings, they wear out. There are reasons the old timers used oil.....
If its worth putting money into it than any further info on this would be helpful I am sure, not sure what it is you are reffering to
Those tools seem to take a lot of CFM to get them to run.I have a 60 gallon tank and I can run it out of air rather quickly with an angle die grinder.The tool should say how much CFM it takes to run it.The compressor will also say how much CFM it will put out at what PSI.
Here is one source for parts. The parts diagram should help.
http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/sears-craftsman-parts-919165610-air-compressor-p-28632.html (http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/sears-craftsman-parts-919165610-air-compressor-p-28632.html)
The oilless jobs are pretty much short life consumer grade. Maybe a real compressor on that tank is a good idea.
Thanks, yes I do have this, Id like to hear more about how exactly it works, I understand that it forces compressed air into the tank, like to find out why one cylinder is compressing air and then running it over to the other cylinder which is sucking air.
Like to find out what wears and how to look for the wear, anything else that might help
Im sure Oily will post some pict. soon enough
I don't know alot about compressors yet. Maybe one of the cylinders has a bad reed valve ? I am just learning about them. One I have leaks air from a pin hole in the tank. One was givin to me that the piston is broke in half at the wrist pin. My third and smallest runs ok, it's just too small for HD jobs. I missed out on a couple of free ones because I called too late.
EvilDr235
Pictures!
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Tools%20Talk/comp1.jpg)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Tools%20Talk/comp2.jpg)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Tools%20Talk/compfull.jpg)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Tools%20Talk/scan0009.jpg)
Quote from: EVILDR235 on June 23, 2012, 07:50:47 PM
I don't know alot about compressors yet. Maybe one of the cylinders has a bad reed valve ? I am just learning about them. One I have leaks air from a pin hole in the tank. One was givin to me that the piston is broke in half at the wrist pin. My third and smallest runs ok, it's just too small for HD jobs. I missed out on a couple of free ones because I called too late.
EvilDr235
I dont think this version has reed valves but thanks
The Spec. sheet shows two different strokes and two different pressures, and the tank says two stage.
So I think the the low pressure piston draws in air and pushes it to the high pressure piston. In other words
one cylinder feeds air to the other cylinder.
Ray
Output at 90 psi is what you look at and need.
Your broken, current compressor should be replaced with one that has at least the same 90 PSIG output.
A 5.0 rating is too low,,, just will not keep up with air tools and sand blasting!
I should have bought the BIGGER ONE at Lowe's a year ago!
My present 1 year old Lowe's V-Twin has 5.1 at 90.
I have to stop, wait for air-build up pressure, and do this OVER AND OVER, AND OVER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am now about to go buy another Compressor with a much higher rating at 90 psig.
However, at my age, I have found out that I also like the "break", by just sitting and waiting for the compressor to build back up to 150 psi!! I'm an old fart now with low production.
You may have the same choice to make! GET THE BIG ONE!!!!!
Thanks, I guess I have decided though at this point to keep pluggin with this one, to be honest I just dont have the money now for a new one, maybe some day I will. This one still works, has worked and done everything Ive needed up until now, like I said even now it still works just want to see if I can make it work better.
Its got crappy reviews all over the net, had I know that I would not have bought it but my search capabilities on the net are less than poor.
Parts are cheap and I think Rusty was onto something in his post above and hopefully I can get some more clarification on that.
Its been raining here non-stop so it gives me the chance to get on the internet and start asking around about it, I need to figure out for sure how it all works before I start ordering parts and assuming things are wrong with it.
BTW I have heard now recently that belt driven oil cooled is the way to go, do you really think Lowes or H.D has a compressor worth buying?
After looking around a bit, the manual for that compressor wisely doesn't tell what the pathetic CFM rating is, but it's about 5.1. The compressor was made by Devilbiss...
This is what you need minimum for various common tools ...
Average CFM @90 PSI, multiply by 4 for Continuous CFM
Angle Grinder 8
Air Hammer 11
Drill 6
Impact Wrench, 3/8" 3
Impact Wrench, 1/2" 5
Impact Wrench, 1" 10
Die Grinder 6
Needle Scaler 16
Orbital Sander 9
Air Ratchet, 3/8" 5
HPLV Paint gun 17
Rotary Sander 12
Sandblaster (small) 15
Sandblaster (big) 80
(Sandblast depends entirely
on nozzle size)
5 CFM isn't even enough for intermittant use of an 8CFM DA....
As for sandblast, the 4 cyl 5HP machine we have at the shop can't even keep 100%, sandblasting sucks air like you wouldn't believe....
(As to your question about one cylinder not sucking air, 2 stage cheap compressors often only have 1 reed valve between the stages, so it only works with the 2 stages connected)
>>Its been raining here non-stop so it gives me the chance to get on the internet and start asking around ...
Start here: http://www.truetex.com/aircompressors.htm
With some messy math (link above), you can also calculate the time it should take your compressor to fill the tank, and compare it with the time it takes your compressor to fill the tank, and that will tell you if your compressor is at least working the way it is supposed to (EG not leaking 50% of the power past the rings)
BTW,,,, I have heard now recently that belt driven oil cooled is the way to go, do you really think Lowe's or H.D has a compressor worth buying?
Your above quote is absolutely correct.
I would of bought a 2 stage compressor, but I could not find one in my price range.
A 220 volt motor is mandatory for any compressor motor over 2HP.
Yes, Lowe's or Northern Tool is where I would shop first,because of what they have, and how they handle a return if needed.
Yes, my compressor has an oil sump, oil level glass in the side of the crankcase. It is a V-Twin, external flywheel, belt driven by a 1 3/4 HP 117 vac motor.
It pumps strong, and is much quieter than those SEAR'S noisy ones!
I just changed the crankcase oil in mine, as the sight glass was looking dark.
I paid about 425 Dollars with my discount at Lowe's. That sounds about right.
I bought it about a year ago.
I will be using it very early tomorrow morning. to take off the blades of my lawn tractor.
Picked up a new compressor tonight, prob. went overboard, will post photos soon. It is big and I had to dissasemble to transport. It is a Curtis and it is 3 phase, got to be an inexpensive way to make this work on my home juice without changing the motor.
I would like to keep it the way it is because although it may be a little older it looks like it was kept inside for the most part and is in good shape with its original finish.
Any ideas?
Is the idea of 3 phase service out?
Quote from: OilyRascal on June 28, 2012, 08:55:35 PM
Is the idea of 3 phase service out?
Not sure what you mean by out but as far as I know it would be tough too find 3 phase in residential.
I did a little digging and I could have bought a converter that would have made the three phase motor compatible with my land line electric but that deal would have cost me 900 bucks, I wanted to keep the original motor badly but not that badly. Just too much and would have just been one more thing to break.
Lesson learned...I called Baldor ( original manufacturer of the motor ) and told them what I had and what I needed to do, they give me a part no for the same motor but single phase, same mounting plate ect ect, all identical, Baldor sells it between 8-900 bucks, sniffed around on-line and found an electric shop in Mass that has the same motor ( new ) for 400 bucks ( same model No as given me by Baldor ) and they sell thru e-bay so I went ahead and purchased item no 180901621023.
The compressor that I purchased last night has a tag on it that shows manufacture of 1997, the same compressor ( newer version same model no ) is avail on e-bay as item no 120785387559
I am not dissapointed about it being a few years old, it appears very well made and I would not be surprised if the newer versions havent had corners cut here and there to save a few bucks from the manufacturer.
Seems like it will do anything I might want it to do, what do you guys think?
Sounds like you found a graceful solution. I suppose residential isn't all the same as service here is very much affordable. I priced it last fall looking at sawmill conversion to electric. @@@ I've also used phase converter in a temp situation with a main leg shorted...worked well for the few weeks until a new line.!!
Is the h.p. and rpm remaining the same across motors?
Good phase convertors are expensive, and cheap ones are usually dissapointing.
Both are inefficient, so going with a replacement motor will probably pay for itself in electricity eventually...
You stuck your foot into a rather classic problem you know, there are enormous numbers of surplus machines out there from closed industrial and manufacturing, and they are all three phase, and everyone wants one for theoir garage but has no place to plug it in -P
As to Curtis, they have been making decent quality machines for a very very long time, if you got one big enough , and do the necessary periodic maintainance, you should be quite happy with it :)
Now the only question is going to bem do you have a plug big enough for that motor? LOL
Quote from: OilyRascal on June 29, 2012, 07:37:21 PM
Sounds like you found a graceful solution. I suppose residential isn't all the same as service here is very much affordable. I priced it last fall looking at sawmill conversion to electric. @@@ I've also used phase converter in a temp situation with a main leg shorted...worked well for the few weeks until a new line.!!
Is the h.p. and rpm remaining the same across motors?
3 phase is not cheap or a simple process to have installed, I assumed it was that way across the board. I guess that shows what happens when I think
Quote from: 1930 on June 23, 2012, 08:54:28 AM
Just a quick question as Im on my way out the door, I have a Craftsman model No 919.165610
Cant seem to get a steady enough pressure to run a grinder or DA, anyone messed with this variety compressor and is it worth me messing with any longer. Maybe I just need to keep the tank and get a different compressor.
I want to be able to do most anything I want to do at home including run a sandblaster again.
I dont mind putting some money into it to get it where it needs to be but maybe there is nothing than can help this thing do what I want it to do and I dont want to piss away any more money.
Any suggestion welcome
I had the same problem with my Husky oil less and all I did was adjust the regulator switches. turn the screw slowly to set the max pressure off switch and do the same for the min press on switch. It takes some time since you need to bleed it off several times and let it restart to get the right settings. I found the video on the internet showing how to do it. If I can find it again I will post it.
Quote from: Ietech on June 30, 2012, 12:18:36 PM
Quote from: 1930 on June 23, 2012, 08:54:28 AM
Just a quick question as Im on my way out the door, I have a Craftsman model No 919.165610
Cant seem to get a steady enough pressure to run a grinder or DA, anyone messed with this variety compressor and is it worth me messing with any longer. Maybe I just need to keep the tank and get a different compressor.
I want to be able to do most anything I want to do at home including run a sandblaster again.
I dont mind putting some money into it to get it where it needs to be but maybe there is nothing than can help this thing do what I want it to do and I dont want to piss away any more money.
Any suggestion welcome
I had the same problem with my Husky oil less and all I did was adjust the regulator switches. turn the screw slowly to set the max pressure off switch and do the same for the min press on switch. It takes some time since you need to bleed it off several times and let it restart to get the right settings. I found the video on the internet showing how to do it. If I can find it again I will post it.
That would be a good video to see and thanks, I have the comp. on Craiglist now but no bites so I guess my hopes of recouping some of my money for the new one are diminishing at this point.
I guess it may end up being a keeper like it or not so may have to find another use for it
The "old" one could always make for a volume tank (remote or not), when you need it.
Quote from: OilyRascal on June 30, 2012, 03:51:23 PM
The "old" one could always make for a volume tank (remote or not), when you need it.
I may use it as a holding tank for something else, it will get used if it dosent sell, no problem
Quote from: 1930 on June 30, 2012, 03:03:33 PM
Quote from: Ietech on June 30, 2012, 12:18:36 PM
Quote from: 1930 on June 23, 2012, 08:54:28 AM
Just a quick question as Im on my way out the door, I have a Craftsman model No 919.165610
Cant seem to get a steady enough pressure to run a grinder or DA, anyone messed with this variety compressor and is it worth me messing with any longer. Maybe I just need to keep the tank and get a different compressor.
I want to be able to do most anything I want to do at home including run a sandblaster again.
I dont mind putting some money into it to get it where it needs to be but maybe there is nothing than can help this thing do what I want it to do and I dont want to piss away any more money.
Any suggestion welcome
I had the same problem with my Husky oil less and all I did was adjust the regulator switches. turn the screw slowly to set the max pressure off switch and do the same for the min press on switch. It takes some time since you need to bleed it off several times and let it restart to get the right settings. I found the video on the internet showing how to do it. If I can find it again I will post it.
That would be a good video to see and thanks, I have the comp. on Craiglist now but no bites so I guess my hopes of recouping some of my money for the new one are diminishing at this point.
I guess it may end up being a keeper like it or not so may have to find another use for it
Here is the video I used --- the husky I bought at HD is so similar you'd think they were made by the same company. Probably were LOL
Video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkOPw4GAZf8
Mine is rated at 150 PSI so I just followed the same procedure until I reached the goal. Over 5 months ago and have not had another problem, even with the high vibration of an oil less.
BTW I use a die grinder and a 4" cutoff wheel all the time with mine -- no problem just a little long on recovery time --- blaster no WAY I'd have too much time to drink beer while waiting for recovery of pressure.
Thanks, Ill check that out
The white PVC pipeing has to go first, it is NOT rated 150 psi, and it WILL turn into shrapnel and kill everything standing within 30 feet ;P
Just saying.....