Tool Talk
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: 1930 on October 28, 2012, 07:24:09 PM
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I had a very old hacksaw break on me today, it prob. was not the best construction to begin with and I am not as gentle on many of my tools as I should be.
I would like to replace it, I would like to find one like it in that it had a wooden grip wrapped around the steel body. Anyone that has one and dosent want too much for it please respond. Thanks
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Pictures of your broken one would help people know what you're looking for.
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I am putting up two pics that to me fit the description, the wood wraps around the handle. Is yours one of these types?
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Pictures of your broken one would help people know what you're looking for.
I dont need one exactly like the one that is broken that is why I did not post a picture, just looking for a good serviceable saw that will last many years of often use and abuse.
Pict. attached anyway, thanks
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I am putting up two pics that to me fit the description, the wood wraps around the handle. Is yours one of these types?
I like the looks of the top one, looks more compact to get into tight areas and the handle is real pretty but I dont see being able to really get much push or pull of that slip grip so the bottom one would be better suited if not for the taller width and its appearance of maybe being a bit more fragile. Cobblers look is not something I have ever been attracted to either.
I really enjoy my tools so appearance is important to me. if a better suited one is not offered by someone else and the top one is avail than I would be very happy to own that one.
I am not concerned with rust or grime nor initials and such, adds character to the tool in my opinion
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I realize its not wood handled, but here is an older Bluepoint offering should you care for it.
A bluepoint hacksaw
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Tools%20Talk/CIMG2864.jpg)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Tools%20Talk/CIMG2866.jpg)
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THE SECOND PIC SURE LOOKS LIKE A BUTCHERS SAW TO CUT THE TWO HALVES OF A COWS BACKBONE BOB W THE WOODEN HANDLE WILL NOT SLIP WHEN WET BOB W
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Bob,
I think the second one is be a dehorning saw, although I am sure it would work well for your application. There is not a lot of difference between a meat saw and a dehorning saw. I think the frame is a little thicker/heavier on a dehorning saw. See Sellens book, page 402, if you have that.
Thanks,
John
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Can a guy have too many hack saws?
I keep buying them, especially the better makes and models. I recently picked up a newer Lennox model. It looks like it could take a beating for years and years.
I probably own 12+ hacksaws, all user grades, but I couldn't tell you the last time I used one.
Weird, isn't it?
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Can a guy have too many hack saws?
I keep buying them, especially the better makes and models. I recently picked up a newer Lennox model. It looks like it could take a beating for years and years.
I probably own 12+ hacksaws, all user grades, but I couldn't tell you the last time I used one.
Weird, isn't it?
There must be some limit, I suppose, and there are a lot that I can manage to pass by. Still... I recently bought a Porter Disston 348 and then found a pre-Porter 348 and just had to have it, too. Got a few others as well. Yeah, a bit weird.
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1930,
I like the looks of your saw with the shovel handle. Was it homemade? Could you fix it with a frame from a common style saw? I see them all the time at St Vinnies for a buck or two.
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Here you go. This what you --really-- wanted.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Millers-Falls-hacksaw-no-79-made-in-USA-/251173022496?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7b142b20 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Millers-Falls-hacksaw-no-79-made-in-USA-/251173022496?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7b142b20)
The great Millers Falls hacksaws came in many patterns. This pattern is my favorite.
After they made this pattern hacksaw, people gave up trying to make hacksaws better and only tried to make them cheaper. The frame is thick enough to be essentially bulletproof and able to sustain high tension on the blade. The angle of attack on this, meaning the angle of the handle compared to the cutting edge? Plus the drop, meaning the handle is dropped to line up with the blade like almost no other?
Makes the sawing geometry just plain perfect for precision work.
These came in many handle choices too.
I know you asked for wood, and its not hard to make your own wood handle slips for these.
But the handles on this one are "fire ruby".
Millers offered them in a bunch of chalky opaque colors and true rich translucent ruby red, (which are flat gorgeous themselves),
but this fire ruby is not to be believed if you polish it up. Its like electric or something. It looks out of this world up close.
I have one but no photograph can capture what it looks like in your hand.
Second picture are a couple of my homemade wooden handles for hacksaws. The one in front is an early Millers pattern. Black walnut handles.
yours Scott
PS Your old one, with its shovel handle, is so unusual and funky I would repair it and keep it, if I were you. Don't lose the parts! All it lost was a couple of rivets, big deal.
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I realize its not wood handled, but here is an older Bluepoint offering should you care for it.
A bluepoint hacksaw
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Tools%20Talk/CIMG2864.jpg)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Tools%20Talk/CIMG2866.jpg)
Thanks for the offer but I do not like a steel handled hacksaw, I still have memories of all too often using a steel handled key hole saw as a child and the aches it left in my hand
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1930,
I like the looks of your saw with the shovel handle. Was it homemade? Could you fix it with a frame from a common style saw? I see them all the time at St Vinnies for a buck or two.
I do not know if it was homemade, I guess it possible but not by me. I guess now that you mention it I should fix it.
I guess I got sidetracked with so much else going on and so now that I consider it I am a little ashamed I did not think of it. ( OK alot ashamed )
The end that holds the blade snapped off. I dont know what you call it but it has clean snapped off. I will need to grind the heads off the rivets still in place and then find something that looks similar to attach the new piece with.
So if anyone has a broken hacksaw that has the little part I need I would like to have it.
I guess this will save me a few bucks going this route as well and when I get it fixed it will outlast me I am sure.
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Here you go. This what you --really-- wanted.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Millers-Falls-hacksaw-no-79-made-in-USA-/251173022496?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7b142b20 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Millers-Falls-hacksaw-no-79-made-in-USA-/251173022496?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7b142b20)
The great Millers Falls hacksaws came in many patterns. This pattern is my favorite.
After they made this pattern hacksaw, people gave up trying to make hacksaws better and only tried to make them cheaper. The frame is thick enough to be essentially bulletproof and able to sustain high tension on the blade. The angle of attack on this, meaning the angle of the handle compared to the cutting edge? Plus the drop, meaning the handle is dropped to line up with the blade like almost no other?
Makes the sawing geometry just plain perfect for precision work.
These came in many handle choices too.
I know you asked for wood, and its not hard to make your own wood handle slips for these.
But the handles on this one are "fire ruby".
Millers offered them in a bunch of chalky opaque colors and true rich translucent ruby red, (which are flat gorgeous themselves),
but this fire ruby is not to be believed if you polish it up. Its like electric or something. It looks out of this world up close.
I have one but no photograph can capture what it looks like in your hand.
Second picture are a couple of my homemade wooden handles for hacksaws. The one in front is an early Millers pattern. Black walnut handles.
yours Scott
PS Your old one, with its shovel handle, is so unusual and funky I would repair it and keep it, if I were you. Don't lose the parts! All it lost was a couple of rivets, big deal.
I do like this one but I wont bid since their shipping cost is ridiculous. I am going to fix mine now anyway
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Attention OIly, since Bob doesn't want your Blue Point, I'll take it off your hands. I think it's pretty cool, achy hands or not....
PM or just toss it in the pile....
DM&FS
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My hacksaw stash continues to grow. No photo of all of them yet, but maybe when i finish cleaning and organizing the shop. I have a couple of the Porter Disstons, a couple later model Protos, a couple of the translucent Wards masters, A recently featured stubby Helwig and Klein(that sitll has what appears to be its original Klein blade), and I never turn down a Millers Falls hacksaw, maybe have 4 of them. Stanley's if they're old enough, and several others that I'm forgetting right now.......
DM&FS
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Dang, dimwittedmoose beat me to it. I've been looking for a heavier hacksaw for a while now. One that put tension on the blade and not go all squirrely and stuff. Not many will do that, they are all pretty much junk nowadays.
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I agree with the previous poster, that the Lenox is pretty bullet proof by today's standards, but I have a spare Proto that's not bad either if you really need the "collector's badge" on your workers. Not sure how old it is, but it's painted red and has a plastic insert in the handle, but definitely pre-Stanley Take-over......
DM&FS
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I love my Lenox, and it has to be pushing 20 years old....
Once you use a tube frame hacksaw, you will never use a stamped frame one again ...
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Attention OIly, since Bob doesn't want your Blue Point, I'll take it off your hands. I think it's pretty cool, achy hands or not....
PM or just toss it in the pile....
In the pile.
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My Lenox is the best. Bulletproof.
All others follow.
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>I do like this one but I wont bid since their shipping cost is ridiculous.
1930, if the saw won't fit in a small flat rate box, how would the seller get the shipping any lower? Always looking for cheaper shipping ideas:)
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>I do like this one but I wont bid since their shipping cost is ridiculous.
1930, if the saw won't fit in a small flat rate box, how would the seller get the shipping any lower? Always looking for cheaper shipping ideas:)
Dont know, I am not necessarily blaming the seller for the high cost to ship
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While on the Hack saw topic. How many install the blade so it cuts on the pull stroke.
The reason I do it is because I once broke a blade and pushed my hand into the broken blade and cut myself very badly.
If you break a blade on the pull, all the soft fleshy parts are safe.
Give it a try.
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That's how my Pop did it, and so do I!
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I use all file handle hacksaws on the pull. But I use pistol grip saws on the push stroke.
yours Scott
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I like Hacksaws, use them all the time, keep several with different blades at each workstation.
my favorite is the red handle, Klein, & 2 Miller Falls & a jewelers saw. (bottom 5) the rest are odds & ends; Sears, Stanley, Viking, nonames, etc..
I normally cut on the push stroke (Cuts faster), sometimes will use the pull for thin cuts (control), many times will install blade hooks opposite from each other, helps to prevent blade twisting on cheaper frames.