I've had this guy for a good while and stumbled across it today; a Littco #165 bench vise that clamps onto the bench. It's not a big boy, having 5" jaws. It is missing the foot on the on the clamp turn-screw that holds it to the bench. I hadn't heard of Littco before seeing this. Hope you enjoy. I'd be interested in your experience, or creative thinking, with fixing the bench clamp - also welcome any discussion around Littco or the vise.
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/CIMG5018.jpg)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/CIMG5017.jpg)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/CIMG5016.jpg)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/CIMG5015.jpg)
Find a "cupped" washer- like used to space the shock bolts on a motorcycle- of appropriate size and place it there, then lightly peen the screw so it stays there but still rotates freely.
(http://performancelongboarding.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/h/shot2-12.jpg)
This style vise is the forerunner of the Stanley 700. I've got one of these (stashed where I can't get at it to see if the maker is the same). Made by more than one company. Every wood worker ought to have one -- when you need this vise, nothing else will quite do. It will clamp two boards at right angles to each other, It will clamp onto a saw horse, and nothing beats it for working on doors or wood sash.
Thanks, Papaw! That's a great idea and one I will be sure to try out.
Branson - I would have been a while thinking to use it to hold two boards at a 90 - versus having it clamped to a bench and using the one jaw set. Thanks for that tip!
I've got one of these somewhere, mine is made of cast aluminum, probably a Craftsman since it was my Dads. They are "the" vise for holding a door on edge for hand planning and such.
Littco may stand for the Littletown Vise Co. I have one like yours but don't know who made it.
I never thought of using it to hold two boards at right angles. Thanks for the tip.
Mike
Founded in 1916 as "Littlestown Hardware and Foundry Company" using Littco as the brand. Name is now Littlestown Foundry; still in business in LittleStown PA.
http://www.littlestownfoundry.com/history.htm
for the vice clamp pads, I used fender washers with holes that just fit over the tip of the screw... (sometimes press-fit)
How do you put the cup in the washer so the pin on the end of the threads doesn't hit?
Mike
You can buy cup washers. Otherwise ,I guess you could "cup" a fender washer with an arbor press.
A pair of Littgo vises I've acquired, one with swivel, and the other has lost the swivel. On the small side, but good for certain things.
Quote from: oldtools on January 11, 2013, 04:19:04 AM
for the vice clamp pads, I used fender washers with holes that just fit over the tip of the screw... (sometimes press-fit)
I use several fender washers stacked to distribute the force, main thing is the hole fits on the tip & rest on the boss of the screw.
(can peen the tip to retain the washers.) easier to fit fender washers (drill), I find other washers holes too big to fit on boss.
Quote from: john k on January 12, 2013, 06:11:53 PM
A pair of Littgo vises I've acquired, one with swivel, and the other has lost the swivel. On the small side, but good for certain things.
I like them, and wish I had one. Do you have a magic hat somewhere you pull this stuff from? I believe you may have a few vices :)
I have never made them for a vice,but have repaired a number of C clamps by turning bar stock down in the lathe to fit the end of the screw. Turn the part nearest the threads down to about an 1/8 in wall around the hole. Clamp the new part, installed, to a steel plate, heat the collar red hot and peen it down so that it holds on the end of the threads. It looks like there is a slight undercut on the end for this purpose. If you are careful peening, it will swivel when you are done.
Quote from: Papaw on January 10, 2013, 07:12:10 PM
Find a "cupped" washer- like used to space the shock bolts on a motorcycle- of appropriate size and place it there, then lightly peen the screw so it stays there but still rotates freely.
What he said!! Here's a couple of pics of my #165. Looks like that is exactly what was done.
Brian L.