I have wanted one of these since I saw a picture of Noels but I have never seen one for sale anywhere other than e-bay. I am assuming that because of its loss of chrome and un-fancy handle I paid way too much for it but I dont care cause I didnt pay a whole lot.
What do you guys think its worth though and can someone date it, I would also like to understand what the heck someone was thinking when they designed it, does not seem to make a whole lot of sense to me because of its bulkiness and awkwardness to use. Jaws are not chewed up, couple of small nicks on them and everything move freely.
Says on backside Wizard Pat May 21 07
The Richard sumpthin Co Aurora Ill
EDIT: Ok I see it was made sometime in o6 or 07 maybe, alloy artifacts has a bit about them and google showed me a post made here a while back as well. I would like to clean it up, based on its current condition what would you guys say is the best way, I dont really see any pitting but it looks like it has come darn close to pitting at one time.
Quote from: 1930 on March 02, 2013, 04:57:17 PM
, I would also like to understand what the heck someone was thinking when they designed it, does not seem to make a whole lot of sense to me because of its bulkiness and awkwardness to use.
I'm
guessing, but the guy who designed it back in "aught six", maybe grew up in a horse and buggy world, so he was "pushing the envelope" when he came up with this one ??
Again, thats just the thought that popped into my head !!
Nice wrench !!
Brian L.
I think those are pretty cool too. I was in the early bidding on one some time ago but dropped out as I watched it go pretty high on ebay. Nice score.
Just clean it up enough to eliminate any rust, maybe try to minimize the pitting. It was never shiny, matter of fact the most sought after ones had a mottled look, even zebra-stripe like appearance.
I don't think they were ever plated. They were hardened which caused the tiger stripes seen on some of the real clean ones. I think an average price in fair condition is probably around $100 - $125.
Very nice, off the charts in cool factor.
Thanks, I was curious so I looked on e-bay after making this post. I had no idea really when looking at it but figured for the 20 dollar asking price and then the additional 50 percent off everything behind the glass case sticker I prob. could not go wrong.
I am glad to have it and it will go behind a different glass case now.
I know you guys have said this guys prices were high/but had nice stuff so I recognize the seller but can you take a look at this pict. I guess I was wrong, its not chrome?? Sure looks chrome to me.
400423117056
Maybe not, maybe this wrench has been wire brushed?
I am not fond of this finish as it looks to me as if its been cleaned too aggressively.
I see a couple of small areas on my wrench that look like they could become problematic though in the future, scraping these small areas with a razor blade shows me their is surely rust bubbles.
I want to preserve the wrench, stop this rust, not lose the dark finish although seeing some tiger stripes would be nice. Maybe my wifes easy bake oven would put some stripes on it ??
I would also like to clean up the jaw damage, I dont want to go hogging it out with my bench grinder since this might be one of the few things I have purchased and not paid too much for so what are your suggestions, I guess no matter what I do I am going to make it look like its been repaired but I cannot leave them like this and I will assume over time that the material will once again blend itself all together.
Thanks for any tips.
I think Jim Bode has used lighting to an advantage on that wrench, making it look shinier. Doesn't look chromed to me.
>Maybe my wifes easy bake oven would put some stripes on it ??
I really really don't think she would like that.
The traditional way that kind of hardening was done was to stick the thing into a pot of horse poo
and bake it for several hours. The ammonia and other things affect the surface of the iron....
Pity the poor soul who lived downwind of the heat treating operation....
Quote from: rusty on March 03, 2013, 07:16:22 AM
The traditional way that kind of hardening was done was to stick the thing into a pot of horse poo
and bake it for several hours. The ammonia and other things affect the surface of the iron....
I think that using bone meal was the most common way of color case hardening. Horse poo and other ammonia rich substances do better at fuming oak to dark rich colors.
But still, the heat process involved in case hardening is something I wouldn't risk on an antique tool.
+1 on what Branson said.....
Never heard of case hardening by horse poo before, although I have heard of using urine and poo for achieving an antique brown patina on steel.
Branson may have a point...
From Arcana of Arts & Science (...) - 1824
Just kidding on the stripes, I have no intention on screwing it up
I was checking out the link amertrac posted for antiquebuyer.com and spotted this example that shows the striping very nicely. Pretty cool look.
I would think it would be possible that maybe mine carries this feature but I am going to guess there is no way of cleaning it too find out with damaging
You can take a very small hammer and work the jaws back down if you want. Mostly anyway.
Persistent tapping will work them back down most of the way. I have done it on other tools lots of times. It will work better and safer if you take them off first.
If I wanted tiger stripes I'd clean first (the hard part, and be sure to wear gloves so your finger oil doesn't spoil it)
then wax off what I didn't want striped. I'd use a small brush dipped in molten wax.
Cold blue will make the stripes.
After you set the blue with cold water, (this is how it works, you apply the solution and then wash back off in a minute or less or it will lighten up and turn gray)
Last, just warm and wipe the wax back off.
stripes
yours Scott
Quote from: scottg on March 03, 2013, 10:36:02 AM
You can take a very small hammer and work the jaws back down if you want. Mostly anyway.
Persistent tapping will work them back down most of the way. I have done it on other tools lots of times. It will work better and safer if you take them off first.
If I wanted tiger stripes I'd clean first (the hard part, and be sure to wear gloves so your finger oil doesn't spoil it)
then wax off what I didn't want striped. I'd use a small brush dipped in molten wax.
Cold blue will make the stripes.
After you set the blue with cold water, (this is how it works, you apply the solution and then wash back off in a minute or less or it will lighten up and turn gray)
Last, just warm and wipe the wax back off.
stripes
yours Scott
Thats a good idea on getting rid ( somewhat ) of the damage to the jaws, thanks
So how about cleaning/maintaining the issue areas of the wrench, any suggestions
Darn, I thought it was a post about Western Auto branded tools.
EvilDr235
Polysorbate 40 or soy Diesel fuel if you can get it will clean the item without disturbing the striping.
Soy is a wonderful bean, it gives us many products that are CHEAP.
Far as the striping goes, I don't think it's case hardening, I think it's scale left after the striking that wasn't cleaned off or buffed away.
I have read that the striped effect on the Wizard and Shark wrenches comes from a hardening process using cyanide
Quote from: Aunt Phil on March 03, 2013, 09:30:55 PM
Polysorbate 40 or soy Diesel fuel if you can get it will clean the item without disturbing the striping.
Soy is a wonderful bean, it gives us many products that are CHEAP.
Far as the striping goes, I don't think it's case hardening, I think it's scale left after the striking that wasn't cleaned off or buffed away.
About the only store left in my area is Wal-Mart but I am sure I have seen this on the shelf right next to the peanut butter.
Quote from: Bus on March 04, 2013, 01:19:49 AM
I have read that the striped effect on the Wizard and Shark wrenches comes from a hardening process using cyanide
I have also read this, may of been a post on this site
Quote from: Bus on March 04, 2013, 01:19:49 AM
I have read that the striped effect on the Wizard and Shark wrenches comes from a hardening process using cyanide
The whole point of case hardening is to introduce enough carbon into the surface of the object to make that surface steel. That means organic material. Look at all the old Colt revolvers, all the old Sharps rifles and carbine receivers; that's what has been done to them. Cyanide by itself isn't going to do this.
Maybe cyanide will make the colors, but unless there is a source for carbon, the results will only be cosmetic.
Cyanide is a carbon atom bonded to a nitrogen atom, it decomposes at high temperatures....