Craftsman Radial Arm Saw

[Mike H]

I picked up an Accra 100 Cman Radial Arm Saw a couple weeks ago.
I have started rust removal and clean up, downloaded a manual, etc.
I need arbor wrenches for starters; doesn't look as though any of my other
Craftsman saw (table saw or circ) arbor wrenches are going to fit. I can get the blade
off with Crescent wrenches; just looking ahead a little. If anyone out there is sitting
on spare parts for this era saw, let me know. Just starting and probably will come across
a few things like for instance the rubber elbow that goes on the dust chute/port on
the blade guard. It split from age so I JB welded it back together; now it won't go back
on too well.
Thanks for any leads or input on "restore"

[Chillylulu]

Pictures

What is the nut size for the wrench?

Chilly

[Mike H]

Chillylulu:
Thanks for quick reply
I have 1-1/16" across the flats of the arbor nut
Mike H.

[scottg]

Did you try Sears?
That's where mine came from. They still had some old stock laying around.

  How bad is it? The entire iron frame was frozen/rust welded to the column when I met mine. I took me 3 months to get it lose, maybe longer.
     yours Scott 

[Mike H]

Scott G
Yep, I talked w/ Craftsman Parts Direct
They don't have anything in the way of parts
As to the condition; really not that bad
I can raise and lower the blade.
I turned the power on and she fired up & didn't sound too bad.
The base / frame needs some help with respect to rust.
May use this project as reason to get a spray
pot for my Craftsman compressor. The yoke clamp handle may
be froze up. Will apply a little more PB Blaster to that this weekend.

[scottg]

There is only one rule for frozen old parts.
Patience
If you hurry you lose 100% of the time
If you take your time you improve the odds dramatically.

For myself, I stripped it down until I have just the column and the yoke frame.
  Then I set it in the driveway with a tree round (stump). I would walk by on my way to work and squirt a little penetrant. Bang the column on the stump lightly.  Move on
I kept up this way, twice a day, for at least three months.
And then one day, zing, it fell right to the stump! 
   
  Napa sells something called Buster-loose or something like that.  Its cheaper than the ritzy more well known brands, but it does work. So you can use more without guilt.
     yours Scott

[Mike H]

Finally got round (Sat. 27th) tearing my saw down to the point where I can make a good effort on rust removal on the base. I've got the elevation crank shaft  assembly out of the column and the grease is dried up. What type grease would you guys spec for repack?  Hope to get a primer coat on the base and take the motor out of the yoke today.

[scottg]

Silicone grease attracts the least airborne dust,
but silicone is death walking in a woodshop. Silicone will ruin a fine finish quicker then anything.
So go for graphite in a binder.
I would use Neverseize.
  Use the least you have to. Very sparing.
   Try and get it off your skin.

   Just kidding about that last part.
         It stays on your skin regardless.
      yours Scott 

[rusty]

> I would use Neverseize.

ehhh...you do know that neversieze is powered copper or aluminum suspended in a *silicone* oil, right?

Lithium grease is generally less sticky than the black and brown greases, probably better where there is lots of fine sawdust floating around.

Sawdust is somewhat evil for machines, it soaks up oil and grease, swells up, and jambs up the bearings , then they get hot because they are stuck and can't slide, the sawdust and grease burn into carbon, the carbon packs in even tighter and jambs things up even better,... then the bearings burn....)

There seems to be no help for it but to occasionally engage in a bit of machinery housekeeping...