Brace bits ?

[pritch]

This thread jogged my memory. I have a brace pipe reamer, too. I guess the hole through it is for a handle to put more pressure on the ream.

]

[Chillylulu]

Or so you can use it without the brace.  If a bar wasnplaced in it you could use it on a lathe or power machine.

Chilly

[Bill Houghton]

Pritch,

In the bottom center of the picture is the cousin to the tool in this thread: http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=12070.0.  If you happen to know what it is, you can solve a problem!

[wvtools]

It is hard to see the details in the picture, but the far right countersink brace bit looks like a rosette pattern (typically 6 to 8 cutting edges), which was used on wood.  The second from the right looks like snail pattern countersink (one or two cutting edges), usually listed in the old catalogs for wood or metal.  The flatter, spade tip countersink brace bits with two cutting edges are metal only.  The far left may be a modified or well used one of those.

[scottg]

oK, on top is a counterbore for centering a large hole on a 1/4" pilot hole (holesaw).
3 pipe reamers, 3 countersinks. The first is a machinist countersink (goes slow but does a good job in metal) and the other two are rose countersinks (better for softer metals and wood).

  Regular driver bit, then 2 user modified bits  (I believe they were probably made for removing and replacing valve seats, think plumbing)
  and then 2 split nut drivers (or spanners if we are being proper old school).
     On the bottom is a standard Forstner bit for a brace
(drills a flat bottomed hole and also can drill a partial arc hole, either overlapping a previous hole or 1/2 a hole from an edge, etc. )
    yours Scott 

[RedVise]

 wvtools, scottg , just saw these replies, thanks guys !


Here is the box they came out of, now refinished.
I posted it over on GG but didn't share with you guys!
Not the best pic, but it came out nice for a low end box.

<gratuitous pic>

Brian

[bear_man]

Just for the record, drilling metal with a brace bit ain't a biggie if your bit is sharp.  (A DrillDoctor is DEFINITELY worth owning — and using as LIGHTLY as necessary on older bits.)  I own a biggish handful I've used "in the field" to repair horse-drawn farm machinery, gate hardware and so on, when I've been too lazy/frugal to take a machine or project back within reach of a power cord.  Helpful hint: I own 2-jawed braces with three different "throws" — 6", 10" & 14" — for various torque desires, particularly in wood. 
     Going back to drilling metal: I'm a strong advocate of "stepping up" the size of drilling to reduce the workload on both me and the larger bits.  Oh, and with a nod to modernization, WD-40 — or even dribbles of oil off of a dipstick — have been helpful too.
     Finally, in an old blacksmithing manual I read that the suggested speed for a 1/2" bit was 50 RPM.  It's also said that "Instant gratification takes too long in today's world."  What, me hurry?

[Billman49]

The hole saw is probably also a plumbers tool - used to cut holes in galvanised iron/steel water storage tanks for inlet and outlet fittings - I have an old set that just have a tee bar handle, rather than used in a brace.... (They have an inner support, and pressure is provided by a screw passing throigh a pre-drilled pilot hole.) They must have taken some effort to get thorugh a 1/8" (3mm) thick tank wall....

[pritch]

Pritch,

In the bottom center of the picture is the cousin to the tool in this thread: http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=12070.0.  If you happen to know what it is, you can solve a problem!

You know, I bought all this stuff at an estate sale of an old plumber, so I assume it's a plumbing tool of some kind. My dad was also an old plumber, but I have all his old stuff and he didn't have anything like it. So I'm a little confused myself. I'll dig it out later and see if I can figure it out. Or, failing that, there is yet another old plumber in my town that I have been meaning to show some stuff to, so I'll throw it in with that and see if he has a clue.

[scottg]

Just for the record, drilling metal with a brace bit ain't a biggie if your bit is sharp. What, me hurry?

  I was once in the old downtown hardware store of Yreka Ca.  Cooley and Pollard.
Well I was looking for a special bit and was searching some really old drill drawers in the back.  What do I find, but metal twist bits, with a brace shank, NOS, and the original prices still on them.  $.73 , $.28 , $.44 etc.
I got a generous handful and headed to the counter.
  The guy at the counter looks me over and says,

  "You know, these are not high speed bits.
   So just go at your usual pace."
heeheheh
      yours Scott

[Chillylulu]

I've seen a lot of pipe fitting tools. I think the 2nd item is more a tap than a bore. If it is a boring tool those threads, I assume, would be for keeping the bit going. 

Pipe wall for 4"is ~ 1/4" thick, 8" pipe is just over 5/16". Many of the tanks here have walls even thicker.

Hole saws leave a plug after the hole is cut. This bit has a flat flute on the bottom that would cut through all the material - so it is not a hole saw. The definitive word here is saw. A hole saw is a saw that follows a circular path, usually around a pilot bit.

The shank is way to big for any ordinary brace. Compare the shank on the 2nd tool with the shank on the reamer - it is almost 3x as large.

As fine as those threads are I am guessing it is an 1½ pipe tap.  It may be 1¼". The threads seem to taper, also. If I remember correctly, there should be ~11½ tpi.  1½" pipe o.d. is 1.9", 1¼" pipe o.d. is 1.66".

I haven't seen very many taps with a tapered shank though.

So, here is my list of guesses (left to right):

1. Wrench
2. 1½" or 1¼" Pipe Tap
3. (on top) pipe reamer
4. Plumbers cut off tool
5. Some kind of caulking iron
6. A plumber's caulking iron
7. Pipe reamer
8. Another packing iron
9. Ceiling iron

Chilly

[john k]

Plumber tools, hmm.   It jogged some memory cells loose, and I think that big tapered reamer may be for lead pipe.   Elbow and Tees, were not available  in lead, the plumbers had to fabricate as they went.    There was another tool too, for chambering a hole to make a Tee.  Have one in the shed some place.   

[Billman49]

Lead pipe reamers usually have a single cutting edge.... multi-fluted ones are probably more used on copper or iron pipes..



known as a tap borer, it was used to cut a hole in a lead pipe for the insertion of a brass tap (soldered in using a 'wiped' joint)..

The lead jointing tool is like a double giant pencil sharpener, with with internal and external cutting edges...

The mystery tool looks like a lead caulking tool, for hammering lead wool into the joints on cast iron pipes, but never seen a version for a power hammer (mystery tool??) - but possibly for underground water pipes that have much thicker walls and collars than drainage pipes....

In Fig. 5 are to be seen various styles of calking tools, some of which may not have been previously seen by all of our readers.

The plumber's cold chisels are of numerous variety, ranging from an 18-in. brick chisel to very small styles.

B represents a blunt cold chisel much used in cutting soil pipe, which is not so easily gotten out of order as the thinner and sharper chisels, such as A. C, D, and E represent different styles of regular calking tools, having blades of different lengths and thickness. F is known as a throat iron, and is very useful in calking such fittings as bends, where there is little room for a direct blow. G and H represent right- and left-hand offset calking tools. It often happens that lines of soil pipe are run in corners, and it is clearly seen that tools of this description are very useful in calking the part of the joint that is on the back side of the pipe. K is another tool for the same purpose.

L is a picking-out chisel, used in picking out the lead of a calked joint, its shape being such that the work may be done to advantage.

M is a stub-calking iron with which almost a direct blow can be given, and of greater force than can be gotten with the regular calking irons, as there is no springing of the tool.

N and O represent yarning irons, the former stiff, and the latter having a spring blade. They are used in forcing the oakum into place, one tool being preferred by some workmen, and the other by others. P is known as a ceiling iron, and is used in calking joints in such positions that a downward blow cannot be delivered in the usual manner. A joint very close to the ceiling, for instance, may be made with this tool, the blow of the hammer being delivered on the offset near the handle.

Read more: http://chestofbooks.com/home-improvement/construction/plumbing/Standard-Practical/The-Plumber-s-Tools-Part-3.html#ixzz39L0BfT8u

The large combined drill/tap with the tapered shank in pritch's image is the type used on a water pipe branch boring machine - for tapping directly into high pressure water mains - the tool drills and taps the hole without loss of water, and the branch pipe with a stop tap is inserted... will try to find an illustration...

Update - like this....

or this

[scottg]

  When you sharpen these up? They work fantastic for cleaning up the inside burr on freshly cut PVC pipe.
You can make a tapered countersink in a wooden hole too,
but,  plastic pipe where they shine like crazy.
        yours Scott
       

[Chillylulu]

]

  When you sharpen these up? They work fantastic for cleaning up the inside burr on freshly cut PVC pipe.
You can make a tapered countersink in a wooden hole too,
but,  plastic pipe where they shine like crazy.
        yours Scott
     

This is what we use for CPVC pipe (Fire protection uses cpvc pipe. It is orange, UL listed, and pretty much application specific.):


The blades go through tu the other side and are used for outside reaming also.


BTW -this is the type of reamer for copper pipe, works for trimming lead also:




CPVC pipe is going the way of the dinosaur.  There are combatibility problems with almost everything and cpvc pipe.  In one area low voltage wires were laid across the tubing. The local AHJ (fire department) made the owner replace the pipe to 1-1/2' to either side of the offending wire.  I'd hate to be the electrician explaining that cost to his boss.


Chilly