Inside a ratchet: How they work

[d42jeep]

Here are all the pictures I have left of that set and ratchet. The sockets were a mix of Ward Master and Truth but looked very similar except for the markings.
-Don

[lauver]

Gang,

I recently acquired a nice little Fleet 1260-1, 3/8-drive round head ratchet that may be of interest to some of you.  It has a 45-tooth ring gear and a single see-saw pawl in the ratchet core.  This ratchet was made and sold between ~ mid-1950's and mid-1960's.

Here's a few photo's:

Assembled complete,



Ratchet core and components disassembled,


Ratchet core & body disassembled,


Let me know if you have any questions or comments.

[d42jeep]

I had picked up a S-K 1/2" drive ratchet with a broken drive side at an estate sale a couple of weeks ago. My tool collecting buddy Jason told me that if I emailed S-K customer service and gave them the part number they would send a free repair kit and that is exactly what happened. Here are a few before and after pictures.
-Don

[bonneyman]

Have had this ratchet awhile but didn't take it apart for pics till last weekend.

A JET 3/8" fine tooth. Comfy handle for a polished hourglass-style, 60 teeth, sliding pawl. Think FACOM, S-K TUFF 1, or the newer Asian Craftsman tri-wing round head.
Selector switch is a knurled ring on the back. Not the easiest to flip, but on the other hand it wouldn't be easy to accidentally reverse it. Actually like this ratchet as it has a very small gear head. Might find a use in tight restricted areas.

[bonneyman]

I had picked up a S-K 1/2" drive ratchet with a broken drive side at an estate sale a couple of weeks ago. My tool collecting buddy Jason told me that if I emailed S-K customer service and gave them the part number they would send a free repair kit and that is exactly what happened. Here are a few before and after pictures.
-Don

Your middle picture shows the difference of construction with the drive gears perfectly, Don.   
The older one is totally disassembleable - the new one is not. About the only advantage is if someone is selling the vintage tool and you find the newer style drive gear in it you can tell right off.

[Northwoods]

these are Craftsman 1/2,3/8 and 1/4-drive ratchets with a "V"-shaped shifter, stamped with the "Craftsman" double-line logo on the raised panel, with "Forged in U.S.A." and a "V" code on the reverse panel.

1/2" overall length is 10.3 inches, and the finish is chrome plating.
3/8" overall length is 6.8 inches, and the finish is chrome plating.
1/4" overall length is 5.2 inches, and the finish is chrome plating.

The ratchet head is fitted with an oil hole closed by a steel ball
Although not marked with a patent notice, the design of the V-shaped shifter is described by patent #D185,651, issued to R.M. Vose in 1959 with assignment to Moore Drop Forging.






At least the PO didn't store the big boy rat in a water bucket, but he certainly did not KEEP RATCHET WELL OILED.















thank you for watching

[bonneyman]

Nice triple play! 

[lptools]

Wow!!! Nice tools, and great job of cleaning them up!! Regards, Lou

[bonneyman]

First new ratchet in awhile. A Kobalt "gearless" racthet in 3/8". Typical Taiwanese-handle, very big round head - even bigger than the Bonney (which I thought was massive!)

Still trying to figure how this thing functions. Apparently when torque is applied in the desired direction the hex shape of the center drive pushed the 6 roller bearing out, producing an interference fit which "jams" the mechanism for movement. Releasing the torque allows the rollers to retract back into the inner ring, allowing for freewheel. How the direction changing knob switches the inner mechanism remains a mystery. Very smooth, seems like it would take high forces easily. Plus it's quick release!
About the only down side is the placement of the two retainer flat coil springs. they are not interchangeable. Apparently the mechanism requires a certain amount of free-play to operate, and the flat springs appear to be different thicknesses. Switching them messes up the fine play adjustment. As does too much light grease. 

So if you need a ratchet with minimal arc swing (and the big head isn't an issue) I'd say this tool would work.

[Northwoods]

Bog did it 90 years ago--with only four roller bearings.  Those clever Americans!

[bonneyman]

Gang,

I recently acquired a nice little Fleet 1260-1, 3/8-drive round head ratchet that may be of interest to some of you.  It has a 45-tooth ring gear and a single see-saw pawl in the ratchet core.  This ratchet was made and sold between ~ mid-1950's and mid-1960's.

Here's a few photo's:

Assembled complete,



Ratchet core and components disassembled,


Ratchet core & body disassembled,


Let me know if you have any questions or comments.

Just found a TruTest 1/4" with the fork selector/roll pin pawl. Not the smoothest mechanism out there but usable.

[Flotsam]

Gang,

I recently acquired a nice little Fleet 1260-1, 3/8-drive round head ratchet that may be of interest to some of you.  It has a 45-tooth ring gear and a single see-saw pawl in the ratchet core.  This ratchet was made and sold between ~ mid-1950's and mid-1960's.

Here's a few photo's:

Assembled complete,



Ratchet core and components disassembled,


Ratchet core & body disassembled,


Let me know if you have any questions or comments.

This is very interesting.   I recently acquired a Tru-Test T1060-1.   the  1/4 in equivalent made by  Proto Challenger.   I have managed to take the ratchet apart by removing the retaining ring. 

So my ratchet  is missing  the spring and does not work.  No i know i didn't lose it.   There was no spring action within the ratchet prior to taking it apart.     So I am trying to find a spring of the correct size  and also find out where that spring goes?     Any help you can provide would be appreciated.     I really would like to fix it by finding a spring rather than the whole ratchet capsule.

thanks in advance.

[Papaw]

Try springs from Bic lighters, or ball point pens.

[Flotsam]

Thanks I will try a spring from there.  My question is where does the spring go?

From looking at it, it is not apparent where the spring would sit

[bonneyman]

Thanks I will try a spring from there.  My question is where does the spring go?

From looking at it, it is not apparent where the spring would sit

If I recall correctly, it's a "floating" spring. It's not really held in but where it's at it can't really go anywhere, and lends it's spring tension to keeping things where you set it - by tension only. If need be I can take my little Tru-Test apart and try to get better pics.