Restoring old Stanley Block Planes

[warren toronto]

My dad gave me an old Stanley Block Plane, model 120.  It started out basically as a blob of rust.  I did not use any chemicals on it yet, just a wire wheel, sandpaper on glass, etc.

Heres a picture of it so far.



It is missing the knob (there are just the threads).  Also there is no more japanning (black) left the top is almost bare metal. Can anyone guess the age of this plane? It says made in canada. I've seen 1930s/1940s stanley block planes and they look a lot different than this, so I'm guessing the oldest it could be is 1950s, but most likely it's late 1960s.

Would the knob have been brass or wood?  I could probably turn a new wood knob, if it's supposed to be wood.  Should I re-japan (black paint) on top? If so, what paint would I use?  I'm thinking motor paint like the guy here:

https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/japanning/japanning.htm


This is my first post here, so hi everybody. I'm just newly getting into tools.

According to here, it's a "piece of junk":

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan12.htm

I don't plan to do much other than chamfer edges with it, so it's not a piece of junk to me.  But I can see why they'd say it. It's not adjustable much, and I can't imagine trying to get anything wider than 1/2" smooth with it.  The plane iron is near the end of its life. This thing is basically not a very good quality plane, but it's fun for me to restore anyways.  I'm learning lots.

Warren

[lbgradwell]

Hello Warren & Welcome to Tool Talk!

The 120 was not a highly-regarded model and I believe it went out of production in the late 1940s, so it's likely older than you think.

The knob was wood and you should have little trouble finding a replacement as I believe the knobs in that style were all the same regardless of the plane model.

In case you don't know, Stanley had an operation in Roxton Pond, Quebec for many, many decades until the plant was closed in 1984... 

[warren toronto]

Okay so then it really must be 1940s.  The American Stanley planes I had seen in the 1940s and 1930s still had the "patent" imprints on them, mostly. So I assumed this one was later.

Is it worth soaking the sole of the plane in vinegar? Or something else? Or just don't bother? I have the plane clean and looking nice and since it's not that high quality a plane, and not very adjustable, I will just try to find a rosewood knob and call it a fun curio.

W

[turnnut]

Hi Warren, welcome to tool talk, I am from Massachusetts.

your plane is not junk, you are preserving an older tool that you cared enough about
to bring it back to life for you pleasure.  you are now the keeper of the past, enjoy it.
and along the way of bringing it back to life, you are learning another process.

Frank

[Bill Houghton]

Vinegar's a good cleanup method: 24 hours inwhite vinegar, brush off the rust, rinse with a lot of water, spray with WD-40, let sit, wipe down.

[Branson]

Hi Warren, welcome to tool talk, I am from Massachusetts.
your plane is not junk, you are preserving an older tool that you cared enough about
to bring it back to life for you pleasure.  you are now the keeper of the past, enjoy it.
and along the way of bringing it back to life, you are learning another process.
Frank

I'll stand with Frank here.  The plane is not at all a piece of junk; it's just basic.  Remember the first Stanley planes didn't have a lateral adjuster, and for all the highest quality planes the "lateral adjuster" was a hammer.  I just acquired (another) one of these.  After honing the edge, it got put right to use and it works.

It was in production for 74 years -- a lot of people thought it was OK enough to keep buying them.

[Chillylulu]

Hi Warren, welcome to tool talk, I am from Massachusetts.
your plane is not junk, you are preserving an older tool that you cared enough about
to bring it back to life for you pleasure.  you are now the keeper of the past, enjoy it.
and along the way of bringing it back to life, you are learning another process.
Frank

I'll stand with Frank here.  The plane is not at all a piece of junk; it's just basic.  Remember the first Stanley planes didn't have a lateral adjuster, and for all the highest quality planes the "lateral adjuster" was a hammer.  I just acquired (another) one of these.  After honing the edge, it got put right to use and it works.

It was in production for 74 years -- a lot of people thought it was OK enough to keep buying them.

+1 - and it was copied by their competition.

Chilly

[scottg]

The 110 was one of Stanley's top sellers. Million upon millions sold.
Anything that sells that much is something people used, you can bet your life.

The 110 is a rough service plane. A carpentry plane, not really a cabinet or furniture plane.
It was made to be used hard and shoved into your apron pocket.
One of the reasons they are called block planes, are blocks!
The blocks of wood in between framing members? Keeping them straight and true?
Well people use plywood or particle board now but solid blocks were used for a couple hundred years.
The blocks sometimes needed trimming and that was the original intent of this plane.

Any rough service job, outside the proper woodshop, is what this plane will do for you.

yours Scott

[Jim C.]

Warren,

I can't really add anything to the comments that have already been posted.  All the guys who chimed in already are about as knowledgeable in these matters as they come.  I would only echo those who suggested that you use the plane.  Your dad gave it to you.  That alone makes it worth the effort.

You'll read a lot of things online about hand planes.  One particular site that you may have visited, and is fairly well known, provides some really good information about Stanley planes.  The writer most definitely knows his stuff when it comes to antique Stanley planes and other tools.  The site is mostly a valuable resource but that's where it ends for me.  I don't really get into the sarcasm or the overly negative, biased comments, that are intended as humor.  I actually think they detract from the end product and unnecessarily cloud the subject with inaccuracy.  Your plane, and that particular model, is far from junk.  It was a basic plane, designed to do basic everyday work, while still being affordable to the masses.  In gem mint condition, it's still not very collectible, or worth a lot of money.  Because of that, some with a "collector's slant" may refer to it as junk.  In terms of overall utility, function and affordability, it hit dead center on the bull's eye.  Collecting planes means more than just acquiring perfect examples.  I think it also means collecting history and appreciating design, function, and intended use.       

Use your block plane and make up your own mind.  Understand its design, limitations, merits and history.  If it delivers good results, as initially intended, then keep using it.

Jim C.         

[1930]

Mostly everything I collect is considered junk by the masses. Makes no difference.

I like your plane

[Branson]

There's a new breed of tool buyer these days, one that is willing to pay a couple hundred bucks for a boutique hand saw.  They look down their noses at working class tools, and seem to think that any old Stanley isn't worth owning.  The boutique people seem to look for new ways to make old tools more expensively.

So pay no attention to them.  Pay attention instead to how your tool performs its job.  I have probably too many block planes.  Yeah I admit it.  But the why of all those I have is that I like them.  So I like to feel the differences in using a bunch.  Different ergonomics, different ways to hold and set the blades -- all that sort of thing.  I have one in each of a number of tool kits because they are so serviceable!  Chamfers, sure.  A light touch on a drawer rail, un huh.  One rides in my very small window and door tool kit.  It's perfectly wide enough, its size is a space saver, and the low angle is easy for cutting across end grain.

By the way, I see no reason to put the sole in vinegar.  The sole will get shiny bright just from using it.

[bear_man]

     Warren, according to John Walter's 885-page book (my "Stanley Bible" until I can find/afford the latest 2013, 3rd edition; I learned about it too late to get a copy) "Antique & Collectible Stanley Tools; Guide to Identity & Value" — 2nd/1996 edition — your plane appears to be a "Type 6," made from 1888 to 1906.  In 1996, Walter determined the value typically ran from $25 - $60.  Gotta be more now.  Bottom line: it'll work and that's a value that's hard to beat, plus that it belonged to your dad only adds to that.
     For comparison, I've used a #220 (it has just a few more bells and whistles) for over 40 years and the average price for mine in '96 was $10 to $25.  Pfft.  Mine too was free, but without the heirloom-ish quality, and it's always done what I needed it to do.  I'm determined to switch to a low-angle, adjustable-throat #60-1/2 block plane in the future, but that's then and this's now.
     Oh, and I understand that Stanley made their own threads for lots of tool applications and a "knob-stud" I just checked appears to fall into that category, so threading a new knob inside could be a REAL challenge.  I just now checked in an "extra block planes and parts" box downstairs and I don't have a spare knob (it seems I'm shy two myself).  Perhaps someone else here does?  Start a new thread with that wish in the title?  And as a fall-back position, I might check with someone like Bob Kaune online, a dealer in antique tools and parts, with conversational email access.     Cheers, -bear

[scottg]

  You would never get that price now. Not in mint condition and this plane is acres from mint.
Common wood tool prices have not recovered from the last price crash.

You can make a knob.
  The trick is to drill your hole in the side of a block and carve the knob around the hole.
Not in the end grain it will just chip out. But in the sidegrain.
  Drill a smaller hole than you need and find the coarsest bottom tap you can find. Use the tap to get some semblance of threads going.
  Then use the post on the plane itself to finish reaming the wood to fit.
  Its only wood. A little in and a little out and back in and out (we're guys we can do that)
pretty soon it burnishes its own threads and you are in business.

Low angle block planes are cool alright, but the standard angle still sees the most use. By far.  I like an 18 with the adjustable mouth and knuckle cap.
  Not too hard to get, not too expensive, useful as hell.
And pretty, when the nickel is bright and shiny.
I recommend them. 
I keep two going. One set real fine and the other a little........ hungrier.
    yours Scott
ps I meant cheap, you got that part right?
   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-18-Block-Plane-/400788383639?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d50d96797
     

[bear_man]

Amen, ScottG, I like your idea of using the knob-post to cut threads.  To that idea, I'd add that Warren could discover the top-most, fullest outside diametered thread and carefully (needle) file a vertical or less-than-vertical facet to help with the cutting.  Just keep the edges sharp and when you twist the new knob into place, do so in tiny increments and frequently empty out the frass (there's prolly a better word-choice).