Stanley No. 82 scraper

[Bill Houghton]

I've posted this in General Discussion rather than Woodworking because it seems more likely to have been used as a paint scraper than a wood scraper.  I picked this up some weeks back, and am just now getting around to pictures.

Neat design.  This one, from late in the tool's production (according to Patrick Leach, Stanley stopped producing them in 1958), came with a u-shaped scraping blade, but you can, apparently, clamp your choice of scraping blade in it.  Our house has channel siding, with a 1" wide reveal at the top, returning to the surface of the siding with a 45-degree bevel; so it would be nice to be able to grind a custom blade to fit the channel, next time we repaint.

Some discussion here: [url]http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan10.htm#num82[url]

[oldtools]

Very nice scraper, like the fact that you can clamp different scraper blades in it & change the angle.
you think you could use it to hold Burnished scrapers? has the right angle...

http://wzus1.ask.com/r?t=p&d=us&s=a&c=a&app=a16&dqi=&askid=&l=sem&o=41648103&oo=41648103&ld=1506&sv=0a5ca87e&ip=32710681&id=662E5686E959DE13551F180813F96FBD&q=+sharpen+scrapers+burnishing+tool&p=1&qs=1&ac=768&g=27dcJOS2xhhI1G&cu.wz=0&en=te&io=0&ep=&eo=&b=a001&bc=&br=&tp=d&ec=1&pt=Using%20and%20burnishing%20a%20cabinet%20scraper&ex=tsrc%3Dtled&url=&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwoodgears.ca%2Fscraper%2Findex.html

[Bill Houghton]

Back when I worked at our local junior college, the carpenters used hook scrapers with edges filed at 90 degrees and no visible hook creation for final scraping of trim pieces.  But, since the angle's adjustable on this tool - both coarse adjustment by means of the pivot at the end of the handle and fine by means of raising/lower the handle - I would think a hooked/burnished scraper blade would do fine.

[scottg]

First thing I do on any scraper I use/make is radius the blade. Why anyone would want a straight blade, with corners that dig in, is beyond me.
 Yous has a bent blade, this is unusual. Ordinarily any old piece of handsaw blade is perfect for these.
 
 Not just paint, but barnacles, ink or paint from barrel tops
And really fine finish cuts in a tight places. Metal scraping too.

 My life would be altogether miserable without scrapers.
 This is a classic model
  yours Scott

[clovis]

I cannot hardly believe it....

I picked up a Stanley 82 a while back, and was going to start a thread on it in General Discussion...and I was going to post it tonight.

My model is a little different than yours...maybe a newer model?

My biggest problem is that my 82 is really rusted, and the screws, etc are locked in place, at least for the time being. I've been spraying it with Liquid Wrench for the past few days.

My goal is to make my 82 a usable model. I've got some scraping and painting to do, and I think this will be an excellent tool to use.

Ideas, anyone?   

[Branson]

I cannot hardly believe it....

My biggest problem is that my 82 is really rusted, and the screws, etc are locked in place, at least for the time being. I've been spraying it with Liquid Wrench for the past few days.
Ideas, anyone?

Take off the knob and stick the scraper in a can.  Pour enough goop in the can to cover the screws, etc.  Kerosene is  cheaper than liquid wrench, and some people use transmission fluid.  Let it sit for some days. 

[Bill Houghton]

There was a discussion over on Old Woodworking Machinery, and someone posted a chart demonstrating that the best penetrant is a 50-50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.  And I concur: soaking by dipping it in a bucket is best, if you can get the knob off.

By the way, Scott, according to Patrick Leach, that u-shaped scraping blade was factory original from the middle of production on.

Mine is, I guess, not late late production - they were maroon in color from some time in the early 40s.  So mine is not the first model (on which the knob to tighten the lever cap was on the back), but older than the 40s.

[clovis]

Thank you for the replies!!!

I am having a difficult time removing the wood knob handle on top.

I've been using stuff that I have on hand, instead of spending money on new merchandise...hence the Liquid Wrench. I do have used motor oil, which has been perfect for freeing up a seized C-clamp, several sets of pliers, metal shears, and more. If I can find the right container, I might try to soak the 82 in oil, if I can position it where motor oil does not get to the wood.

Thoughts if this will work?

[jimwrench]

 I like vinegar for that sort of problem. Its also cheap.

[Branson]

Used motor oil?  Nope.  If Liquidwrench is having a hard go of it, the oil won't touch it.  Won't penetrate to where it will do any good.  Liquidwrench is mostly (much cheaper) kerosene. 

[oldtools]

Looks like the screw in back pivots the holder to lock the blade, that may need to be loose & move the holder around.
not sure if you can use a screw driver on the handle with a hand-impact to loosen & removing the wood knob handle on top.

[scottg]

Yup
 Keep on with the liquid wrench since its what you already have.
And start looking for a hand impact. I have a couple and use them frequently.
 Patience above all!
 Stick with it, you win. Get in a hurry, you lose eveytime.
  yours Scott

[clovis]

Yup
 Keep on with the liquid wrench since its what you already have.
And start looking for a hand impact. I have a couple and use them frequently.
 Patience above all!
 Stick with it, you win. Get in a hurry, you lose eveytime.
  yours Scott

Thank you!

My 82 has a swing arm on the bottom of it that allows the blade to move, and the user can lock it in place by tightening a screw.

I finally got the screw free, and also the swing arm mechanism. Now I have to figure out how I am going to get the big screw on top free. It is really stuck.

[scottg]

   I once took the better part of a year on a part.
It was the huge cast iron collar over the column on a radial arm saw. Big 12" saw with about a 4" diameter column.  The collar is around 8" long. 
It was rust welded rock solid. In a million years I never thought it would free up.

  I took the rest of it apart until I was just down to the column and collar. I left it under my carport in the driveway with a round of firewood.
 Everyday on my way to work I would stop and give it a squirt of penetrating oil, then thump it on the firewood block, and move on.
 I just became a habit. ... Squirt, thump, move on.   Had it down to 10 seconds.

 One day that collar just flew all the way down the shaft and hit the block with a huge thuuunnnnk.
  I almost had a heart attack right there!
 
  I have been using that saw ever since.
    stick with it!
          yours Scott 

[clovis]

Scott-

That is a great story...thank you for your words of encouragement!!! I'll keep at this one.