Author Topic: Molasses chelation  (Read 13956 times)

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Offline fflintstone

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #15 on: July 29, 2013, 08:48:45 AM »
One week update:
Well first off there is disgusting foam on top of the molasses brew with mold growing on the foam. YECH!
All of the bare metal is mostly rust free. The chrome wrenches that had a black coating over them from the fire are still black and chrome. All the black oxide tools are just grey now, the screw on the vise moved about a 1/5 of a turn with a hammer. The jaws did not seem to separate. Back in the soup it went.
I have a small pair of HKP bolt cutter that were covered in mortar, a vinegar soak took some of the mortar off and the molasses really cleaned the metal but  I need to get more of the mortar off them to be able to reuse them.
« Last Edit: August 05, 2013, 06:08:56 AM by fflintstone »

Offline Aunt Phil

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #16 on: July 29, 2013, 01:18:44 PM »
Sounds like it's running right.

Sort of similar to converting a tub of cabbage into kraut. 
Good thing is a computer fan from the Headed to China bin will take the stink off to atmosphere.

Scrub the stuff you pull with Dawn dishsoap as fast as it comes out of the tank and you get rid of most of the crud.

Did I mention hanging a bunch of flystrips?
Timing has a lot to do with the outcome of a rain dance!

Offline fflintstone

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #17 on: July 29, 2013, 01:59:38 PM »
Sounds like it's running right.

Sort of similar to converting a tub of cabbage into kraut. 
Good thing is a computer fan from the Headed to China bin will take the stink off to atmosphere.

Scrub the stuff you pull with Dawn dishsoap as fast as it comes out of the tank and you get rid of most of the crud.

Did I mention hanging a bunch of flystrips?


The smell really wasn’t bad. My son didn’t like it. The wrenches went right into rinse water then were wiped off.  A few things went back in and some more went into the soup.

Offline mikeswrenches

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #18 on: July 29, 2013, 02:07:21 PM »
I used Evapo-Rust for a while but it was so expensive that I started looking for an alternative.  I finally settled on citric acid because it was cheap.  Turned out that it worked well also.  I always used it in a plastic container such as one of the wife's old Tupperware containers.

I left most things in overnight, which was usually long enough for most items.  Wash them off with a garden hose to get rid of most of the "stuff" that was left on the surface.  Dry the surface as good as you can and then use 0000 steel wool to clean the balance of the crud off. After all the crud is off, spray it with your favorite potion.  I used Remoil(Remington gun oil) to keep the piece from rusting again.  I used this on plane irons, wrenches and even plane bodies and frogs.  It didn't affect the Japanning on either one.

I did leave a plane body in too long and managed to ruined it.  The acid etched the bottom badly.  As was mentioned above, make sure your item is completely covered.  If you don't you will get a line across the part that is virtually impossible to remove...ask me how I know:).

I used a cup of acid and poured that into a gallon of hot water.  It dissolves quicker with the hot water, and if you use it while it's still warm it works faster.

My only problem was that I didn't like the color of the metal after it was done.  It was a rather unnatural looking gray.  Also it seemed like it made the surface rough.  Maybe I left it in the acid too long, but I noticed this on many different items left in for different amounts of time.

Like most things, you need to try it for yourself , you may have different results.

Mike
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Offline oldtools

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #19 on: July 29, 2013, 02:43:26 PM »
Flintstone; what is mortar?  "bolt cutter that were covered in mortar" is that the same as used to make rock walls? didn't know vinegar could remove mortar...
Aloha!  the OldTool guy
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Offline fflintstone

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #20 on: July 29, 2013, 05:42:08 PM »
Flintstone; what is mortar?  "bolt cutter that were covered in mortar" is that the same as used to make rock walls? didn't know vinegar could remove mortar...


yes, masons mortar! I thought who the heck would do that to a tool!!!!
 I did not expect the vinegar to do anything, but it did loosen a fair amount of it. I assume it was weak mortar mix. thank God it wasn't cement!
some of the original red paint is now visible. I figure I will peck at it with a chisel next and see what comes off.

Offline 1930

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #21 on: July 30, 2013, 05:00:35 AM »
One week update:
Well first off there is discussing foam on top of the molasses brew with mold growing on the foam. YECH!
All of the bare metal is mostly rust free. The chrome wrenches that had a black coating over them from the fire are still black and chrome. All the black oxide tools are just grey now, the screw on the vise moved about a 1/5 of a turn with a hammer. The jaws did not seem to separate. Back in the soup it went.
I have a small pair of HKP bolt cutter that were covered in mortar, a vinegar soak took some of the mortar off and the molasses really cleaned the metal but  I need to get more of the mortar off them to be able to reuse them.
What is the foam talking about :)

Thanks for the chuckle
Always looking for what interests me, anything early Dodge Brothers/Graham Brothers trucks ( pre 1932 or so ) and slant six / Super six parts.

Offline Aunt Phil

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #22 on: August 01, 2013, 02:50:14 AM »
Flintstone consider Laborers scrub new brick walls with a solution of Muriatic acid and water to get all the slopped mortar ff.  Vinegar will work, just less effectively.

Keep an ear tuned to that foam.
Actually it's talking to your kid about how much extra money he can have selling the rum your tank can become in school.
Part 2 of the hands on learning program.

Kids learn best when they are learning something they can use.
Timing has a lot to do with the outcome of a rain dance!

Offline fflintstone

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #23 on: August 01, 2013, 10:15:12 AM »
Flintstone consider Laborers scrub new brick walls with a solution of Muriatic acid and water to get all the slopped mortar ff.  Vinegar will work, just less effectively.

Keep an ear tuned to that foam.
Actually it's talking to your kid about how much extra money he can have selling the rum your tank can become in school.
Part 2 of the hands on learning program.

Kids learn best when they are learning something they can use.

 Thanks for the suggestion on muriatic acid.

I have no idea what you mean about the scum/foam.

I haven’t looked yet this week.

Offline lowie_fuzz@yahoo.com

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #24 on: August 01, 2013, 01:22:35 PM »
Hi all
 I collected cast frying pans & pots and used Electrolysis to clean them. Will take off paint-grease-rust.
All need is plastic bucket, battery charger, water , ph plus, and sheet of metal for the ( + ) side- a metal rod for ( - )side and wire hook.  lowen

Offline fflintstone

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #25 on: August 04, 2013, 06:35:19 PM »
Still no joy at the 2 week mark for the vise, but I am starting to see a gap between the jaws.
Here is the yucky mold.


And these are some gems after a week.


Offline oldtools

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #26 on: August 04, 2013, 09:04:41 PM »
WOW!!  Do you have a before & after photos??  from yucky mold to spotless clean.. Amazing!!
Aloha!  the OldTool guy
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Offline fflintstone

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #27 on: August 04, 2013, 09:07:06 PM »
WOW!!  Do you have a before & after photos??  from yucky mold to spotless clean.. Amazing!!
sorry no, just figure a garage sale wooden box full of rusty drill bits.

Offline rusty

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #28 on: August 04, 2013, 10:18:55 PM »
It seems to be doing a good job so far...interesting.

I would keep the cooler locked at night tho, I think the foam is discussing how to escape...
Just a weathered light rust/WD40 mix patina.

Offline Aunt Phil

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Re: Molasses chelation
« Reply #29 on: August 05, 2013, 12:41:29 AM »
Did I forget to tell you vises take a L O  N   G time to derust & get back in motion when they are rusted up solid?

There is a multipage thread where the mechanism of a vise blew away the electroplating system although all exposed surfaces came clean.  As I recall after a month of electrons pounding it the guy put the vise into a 5 gallon bucket filled with Diesel fuel and let it sit a few more months before it freed up.

When you really get into rust among the things you learn is the tremendous amount of force rust develops (think about rust being able to spall concrete off rebar and create potholes in concrete structures).  Rust also has tremendous adhesion and cohesion qualities.  Rust may move slowly, but it generally always grows.

If you happen to have a small airhammer with a rivet setting chisel, or even a flat punch, pull the vise out of the tank and set it on its back end.  Give the handle end of the screw a gentle beating with the air hammer for a minute or so and toss it back in the tank.  That will often hasten the process by breaking up the rust bond between moving parts.

The most important thing to remember about rust remediation is that the rust didn't develop overnight, and only a fool thinks he is going to remove rust without serious damage overnight.  If your screw or slide are seriously locked it may be necessary to go to a different process.

Keep an eye on the foam on top of the future rum.  If it stops bubbling your tank may be contaminated.  If so you needmore molasses.
Timing has a lot to do with the outcome of a rain dance!