The world of Internet Rust removal has firmly planted itself in Rusty's giant binary cesspool Flintstone.
Funny part is I've read a lot from the acclaimed Experts on the web, and the one thing I'm sure of is most of them are 1 trick ponies who make a huge splash on the web and crawl off before they can be pinned down on any of their theory.
For 20 + years I worked with a man who was near insane in his dedication to developing the perfect rust removal system. I watched 8 years spent on a filtering system for the tanks that electrplate rust off one object and most often onto an electrode before the flter and media were stumbled onto. 2 men stood looking at what was happening and said DOH, we knew that, why the hell didn't we use it before.
Anybody showing an "electrolosys" rust removal process with a layer of scum on top of the tank and cleaning electrodes ain't in the ballgame, because state of the art is a tank you can see to the bottom through the electrolyte, run 24/7 and not clean electrodes. The people who know what they are doing damn sure ain't looking into a camera and posting crap on UTube.
Off top of my head I can think of probably 7 rust removal processes, acids that do the job range from muriatric to citric and phosphoric. Of that group, only phosphoric will not attack good steel. There really aren't any great secrets in the acid processes, unless you believe EvapOrust is a SECRET formula. iT'S CITRIC ACID! Same citric acid as you find in molasses t a higher concentration.
The problem with citric comes when the rusty object isn't completely submerged. There can be problems with container reactions too.
Lasses chelates rust to dust. Lasses contains citric acid, and if you leave steel in lasses long enough, the citric will eat your steel.
Were I playing with a vise I'd buy a bag of citric, rig a coil of black pipe to heat it, and circulate hot acid around the drowned vise, checking results twice a day. It'll get in gaps faster than lasses, and draw less flys. Then again, I ain't an Inturdnet xspert.
