Practice handle...

[oldtools]

My machetes' wood scale handle broke off, so I decided to try & re-scale it with some old curly wood I found. (same as I gave Scottg)
Used epoxy & copper rivets, shaped, sanded, Just rubbed with Linseed oil.

[Papaw]

Well done! Looks great!

[fflintstone]

looks good!

[Branson]

That is truly beautiful wood!  And a good job, too. 

[johnsironsanctuary]

Nice work!  The master's touch.

[scottg]

Way to go!! I love to see it
  curly koa is just divine.

  Here is a trick
 Next time when you are drilling for your rivets, clamp the work down hard to scrap material, and feed the drill very slowly when entering and exiting the wood.
 Through the middle you can drill as fast as you want, but starting and stopping have to be done very slowly.

 This reduces tearout around the hole to nearly zip. Saves a lot of time and material
      yours Scott

[oldtools]

Thanks Scott, I also did a little countersink for rivet flair, maybe little too much...  That's why it's "Practice"..

[lauver]

Gang,

How exactly do you "flair" the rivet ends?  I ask because I have done it a number of times with mixed results.  Also, do you dress up the rivets after flairing by filing them level with the handle?

[oldtools]

Not sure what the experts do, but I just use a light hammer, & pound it against a flat steel (vice anvil)...
1st. Drill as Scott explained, then You want to cut & file rivets protrusion depending on its diameter (~1 dia. per side).
Tap rivets several times, alternating on each side till it mushrooms enough, then do final sanding of handle & rivets to smooth...

[lauver]

oldtools,

Thanks for the tips. 

When you say tap the rivits with a hammer I'm guessing a small ball pein.  Do you tap with the ball end or the flat end?

Sorry for the dumb questions... I just trying to learn some new tricks.

[scottg]

You can countersink for rivets in metal a bit if you want to, but wood is too soft. You won't be able to pein enough to fill a countersink in wood.

    Much better to use a tapered reamer, very lightly.  This gently flairs the holes without having to try to pein too much.
   This is how you set pocketknife rivets so they never come loose as well.
 
 Just lightly taper the holes.

 oh, and basic peining of rivets? 
 You can use the flat or the ball or both.  The trick is to strike near the outside, (either with the ball or with the edge of the flat end) alternating around the perimeter of the rivet.  Kind of the same as torqueing a head. Except you can make several light taps before going to the opposite side.  Keep tapping, sharing the wealth, until the whole perimeter is done.
 (Try to strike just inside the perimeter of course, or you will mar the host material.)
 
     First do one side, and then the other. And then back and forth.
 This spreads the rivet metal at the ends without bending the rivet.   
          yours Scott

[oldtools]

Thank you Scott, I learned the hard way not to countersink, also I used epoxy & some squeezed out the rivet hole & filled the countersink, so the dark ring around the rivets... also easy to over flair rivet & crack wood, be careful..
Good idea, next time will use tapered reamer... 

[leach]

that looks great good job and the rivets look good, kinda gives it a rustic look I give you a A+

[jimwrench]

 Youall keep talking. Learning a lot from your experience. Sounds easier than it is in real life or maybe its these 5 thumbs on each hand that holds be back.
Looks like a nice job to me.

[oldtools]

For a old machete, it works & feels good!!.
That curly look is eye catching, but not sure if linseed oil is enough, (Does it harden & weather proof?)
May need better protection for a handle. (maybe outdoor varathane?)