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New parts for old Skilsaw

Started by Model 12, May 23, 2024, 01:16:09 AM

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Model 12

May 23, 2024, 01:16:09 AM Last Edit: May 23, 2024, 06:52:15 PM by Model 12
This old Skilsaw; 8-1/4" Model 825 Type 13, I posted before, needed more work. I finally got to the Rip Fence. Other saws, I'd used a standard SS nut, welded atop the retaining hole. This time I hacksawed a SS Coupling Nut. This Welding Company I know, he tapped the hole and welded. He called and when I got there I found it in the shop and him gone somewhere. He had this leftover SS Flatbar in place to test things. Fit size on size in the slots. Couldn't find a better start for welding a SS Rip Fence. I'm real happy with their result.
Before that I had a problem with a serious oil leak. Darn thing leaked just sitting in the shed. I didn't know about it right off, cause the previous owner had used the darn saw for masonry and all that oil and concrete dust came together and encased things, so to speak. I needed a gasket for between the "Bearing Holder" (DSCF1561) and the "Gear Housing" (DSCF1596). But same as all the rest of its parts, this one is "No Longer Available." Turns out Permatex makes a good gasket. That bottom of the the Bearing Holder (DSCF1598), reverse side of the Well that bearing sits in, seats down into the Gear Case. Seals things way ahead of the Permatex getting compressed. Took care of the oil leak with no concerns of it extruding into the gear case (DSCF1622).
Top "Handle" was busted when I got it. J-B Weld repair eventually let go. Right below this Handle, the composite "Cover" was pretty nasty. I replaced em both with new parts, designated exclusive for 7-1/4" SHD77 and another 7-1/4". Yet they fit right in place. Maybe more of these sort of parts will work for  this saw with its own "Obsolete."
No matter how much you cut off, it's still too short

lptools

#1
May 23, 2024, 02:32:42 PM
Hello, Model 12 . Nice work on the saw!
Member of PHARTS-  Perfect Handle Admiration, Restoration and Torturing Society

Model 12

#2
May 25, 2024, 07:43:19 PM Last Edit: May 25, 2024, 08:44:39 PM by Model 12
Thanks Lou. I just switched from Diablo to Tenryu Blades for diamond arbor saws. For good reason, but I have to get right to stuff about the nut that's just under the big cap up front; #90. The Bearing Nut #84 tightens onto the Bearing #31. It tracks on the the threads of the Armature (upper right corner) that passes through this half of the Worm Gear Set #834. I tightened the Bearing Nut down and during use, I felt something about the saw. So I checked on the internet; read stuff and watched videos about Worm Gears. Nothing  about a wormdrive saw. I sifted through it all and I came by this thought that tightening too much could restrict the range of motion of the worm gear and that would lessen the amount of torque. That's my understanding is all. So I backed off the Bearing Nut to where it's flush with the end of that Armature spindle. I feel good with the result.
There's no available information about this and I think it's an important thing. Having it too loose or too tight is bad, so what should it be?
No matter how much you cut off, it's still too short
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