H have had a bottle of Moly-Kote powder, by Dow Corning, on my shop shelf for 30+ years.
I used to put this powder in all manual transmissions of the Jeeps that I had.

Worked wonderfully.

I took an empty baby food jar and filled it with this powder, added power steering fluid, and mixed it up to a loose paste.
I put it on the gear and pawl of one of my S-K ratchets and re-assembled.
Sure works! But it is messy!! wiping off gets all over your hands, but GOOP hand cleaner cleans it up.

This is a test to see how it performs

You are just making black moly grease the hard way -P

Should work ok, till the power steering fluid dries up....
(10  years or so)

Messy tho....

Doing some "early" Spring cleaning, I ran across a box pushed way back on top of a steel storage cabinet, and found the box with old car additives in it.
Most never opened. Got to try and use them somewhere, or I will end up putting them in the burn pile.

Thanks Rusty for the advice,,,,

It is mostly sold under the trade name 'Never Seize'. The Molybdenum disulfide is a wonderful lubricant that does not break down under pressure. When the ATF or grease dries up, the Moly-disulfide will still do the job. Downside is it spreads like wildfire when you use it and it is almost impossible to get out of your clothes. Never Seize is used on bolted joints that you want to take apart years later. It does not break down under heat. Exhaust manifold bolts come off easily many years later. Downside is that you must torque the bolt joint to the yield point of the bolt. Manifolds must be retorqued after heating. If you don't, it is such a good lubricant that the threads will work loose. Hard to get off of your hands. I did not know that Goop works on it.

I think I have some Moly Kote liquid for engine oil additives and tranny too.   I'm pretty sure that's the video I saw way back when where the research lab guys mixed Moly Kote in a stock car's engine and they drove like 5 laps at full speed to mix it up good with the existing engine oil.  Then they came into the pits and drained all the oil out of the crankcase and drove the stock car at full throttle around the track and I believe the engine lasted another 4 or 5 laps before it seized up.  YMMV

DM&FS

I have used "never seize" forever when changing spark plugs.
The squeeze tube has lasted forever.
Also used a lot of "cam lube" when I was building up super hi-rev hill-climb motors.

After spinning the S-K ratchet several hundred times on a long socket, both directions,,, is truly has a loud click and super smooth. This normally does not happen.

Stumbled upon something here.  Thanks members,,, for the pointers.

The pipe fitters and boilermakers used never seize on the bolts for pipe flanges in the chemical and oil refineries, exposure to extreme heat from the pipes, the weather, all added to making the use of this very important.

Now, when the horseplay got out of hand and someone saw fit to put some never seize inside the headband of a hardhat, tempers would flare.

Brian L.

Quote from: RedVise on March 08, 2012, 10:51:28 AM
Now, when the horseplay got out of hand and someone saw fit to put some never seize inside the headband of a hardhat, tempers would flare.

I remember those days all to well, along with a fire monitor being pointed at you when you walked out of the building.

I still swear by anti-seize / never-seize - especially on lug bolts and those bolts on tractors where they will inherently be exposed to dirt.

It should be a felony to omit the Never-Seize on a whole host of things!!

Practically everything on a car that isn't bathed in oil anyway.  All plumbing, all exposed electrical gear. Anything that goes in or onto a chainsaw or lawn mower...........
In fact any machine or machine component that is exposed to the elements!! Hinges or pivots on lawn furniture need it.   

I have seen huge bolts soaked in an acid rich environment, left outdoors in the direct weather for a decade at a time, come right back off when you need to. The bolts that weren't coated have to be cut off with a torch. No wrench or ratchet/extension with a long cheater, or impact, would budge them.

I keep 2 or three cans of it handy at all times. I thin some of them with motor or other light oil for some applications. Also as you use it the remainder in the can is settled moly/graphite so you need to thin it anyway.

Yes you will wear it the instant you touch the cap. You'll be wearing a coat  of it the very instant you even touch the jar, no matter how careful you are.
Its just the way it is.
    Too bad about you.
  Lava soap, old fashioned Boraxo or waterless hand cleaner will take it off you with work.
  Several of the spray and wash detergent additives will take it out of clothes.  But wear old clothes when you touch that cap anyway. 

I have used it in ratchets before. Mostly coarse tooth ratchets, thinned,  it does best in.
  The really fine tooth ones, well, its too thick for that.

  Mcmaster sells about a dozen different formulas of it, for various special metal applications. And its spendy. Up to $50 a bottle for some of it.
The plain old cheap stuff from Napa is adequate for most jobs though.

   Never-Seize, use it or suffer!!!

  The last time I rebuilt my bath faucet, new valve seats, new washers and O-rings???
I looked at the clock as I walked out to shut down the water main.
I looked at the clock again as I walked out to turn it back on after the job was finished.
20 minutes total elapsed time.   20 minutes for a complete rebuild. 
The first time I ever did it, it took me three days.

Never-Seize make life bearable
  yours Scott