Finally took this down and havn't attempted to clean it up any.
Didn't see any marking on it, probably under the grime.
Whats the best way to tidy it up w/o destroying it?

I'm not sure you should do any cleaning.  That patina is great.  Maybe blow off and spider webs and dust and that's it.  I sure someone here will have advice on what is best, unless you have a special reason to clean it ....Don't
Mel

Just want to get the grime and dirt off, some of it is caked on and blowing won't take that off.

Mineral spirits and a gentle rag works for me. If you should make a clean spot, drag some crud over it to 'repair' the patina.

I'll give that a try, thanks.

If it was mine..............
Galoot sauce.
Equal parts wax/linseed oil/thinner.
Melt the wax (don't take your eyes off and you'll be ok) and add the others away from the flame. Stir up well.

Apply small amounts at a time with a rag.  Vigorously.
Rub with a clean paper towel. Go again.
  Do this over and over until the paper towel comes up clean.
A 1/4 pound of crap will come off this tool before the end. 

Rub down hard at the end with a rag of old towel material.
 
You will simply not believe what it looks like after this.

"Patina" means different things to different people.
  Primitive collectors want crust and crud and bird droppings. They'll buy stuff you can't even tell what it used to be anymore. But they won't pay much.

  Most tools collectors want the actual color of the metal and wood preserved, but not a 1/2" of crap on top of that. 

   This will be a lot of work. But it will simply knock you out if you do it.
The wood will be gorgeous, the iron black and smooth. Museum quality presentation.
  yours Scott

Scott, what kind of wax are you using?  this sound great.
Mel

Same question, what kind of wax & linseed oil/thinner.
Oil/Thinner?
Is the( /thinner) just a thinner or a linseed oil thinner?

 Paraffin works. Beeswax is a little better, but not much. If you get the beeswax free, go for it. Don't pay much extra though. Parrafin is 25cents a box at yard sales. Old candles are basically free.
  If you melt a little carnuba wax in, you have to use extra thinner. Trust me, that stuff is hard as a brick!

Ordinary boiled linseed oil from any hardware.  The basic woodworkers friend since before the middle ages.
  If you soak rags in the stuff? Drippy wet soaked?
Hang them up to dry outside.  Do not leave in a pile or a bucket. They could catch fire. 

  Easiest insurance for this is to just quit wasting it! A little goes a long way, and rags are what you use to wipe at the end.  Apply it with your fingers. Most will soak in. 

Thinner is a personal choice.
  Paint thinner used to be nearly free, but I was so blown away last time I went to get a couple gallons,  its lost its favor!! 
Turpentine is traditional. Its expensive too though.
Kerosene would work. Diesel.
 
You kind of pick your stench tolerance in a thinner, and go with that.

The linseed oil sinks in a bit and loosens crud on and just under the surface, leaving the real wood exposed.
The thinner breaks down crap off the metal and also thins the linseed so it can work better.
The wax holds it all in suspension so it stays put and has a chance to work longer.

Some slight traces of wax are left at the end, to fill the open pores in wood and metal both, so at least they don't fill back up with schmutz quite as quickly.

The recipe is old as the hills. My friend Tony Seo found it somewhere, and he is a Galoot (the original old tools mailing list discussion group).
So Galoot wax is the official name but I like Galoot Sauce or Dressing because it puts the pretty back, without harm.

  This mix won't break up and remove crusty rust. But it doesn't hurt anything either. 
    yours Scott

Thanks Scott,  will have to file that away in my memory bank.  well maybe I better file it in my computer;o)
Mel

Thanks Scott, will give this a try.