Found an Ingersoll Rand 8032 B drill at a yard sale for $2 an decided that it was worth gambling on until I got it home and plugged it in.  The drill switch has apparently lost its spring tension and it pretty much just flops back and forth. Bottom line is that the motor runs constantly.  This 550 rpm drill really has some torque to it when it first starts up and is likely worth repairing if I cold find a replacement switch mechanism or figure out how to repair the existing one.  Any one our there ever seen one of these babies??There's one on ebay with a BIN of $200, so that doesn't  tell me much about it's true value. Below is a photo of the grip taken apart, just in case the switch assembly looks familiar to one of you ie something that might be a bit on the universal side, but I'm not holding out a lot of hope.


TIA


DM&FS

One of ir's truely stupid marketing idea's, "lets offer electric hand tools to all of our customers who own air compressors..."

The cube part of the switch looks like a standard microswitch part....but it's kinda old..

Chances are good that they didn't make this themselves, so find someone elses drill that looks just like it...

Thanks rusty.  I had also entertained the thought of using a toggle switch like a few of my other moldie oldie 1/2 drills.  One wonders if the guy on ebay added an extra zero to his BIN price.......lol

DM&FS

A lot of eBay prices are incredibly high, IMHO.  I wonder if the would-be sellers need the money to pay for whatever they're smoking!  I say "would-be" sellers because a lot of those item auctions end with 0 bids.  It's bad enough that the starting bids are 5 - 10 times what I'd pay for the same item locally, but then they have shipping costs on top of it.  Drills and other power tools tend to be bulky and heavy, so shipping can be a killer by itself.
I've also noted that some descriptions are far-fetched, or clearly written by someone who has never used the sort of tool offered.  Their expected prices are just as imaginary.  I have routinely written to vendors and pointed out errors, and suggested changes to descriptions.  Maybe one in five actually revises the text, or provides additional photos of critical details.  Most of the rest wind up with 0-bid auctions.
So far, I've refrained from trying to suggest why I think that their prices are out of line, though I have made an offer on specific items that was below the suggested starting bid.  I even got a couple of things that way.

>... refrained from trying to suggest why I think that their prices are out of line

It can be a challenge not being unintentionally insulting sometimes .P

"Is it a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drill?"

"No, it's a six inch drill"

"A six inch drill?.....hmm...ehh..err...you mean it's six inches long?"

"Yes!"

"Ahh...I see....."

You guys crack me up.......

DM&FS

If I were repairing it as a user tool, I would wire it directly and bypass the switch.  I would plug it into a foot pedal switch that I use for routers.

Just this morning, a "Continuing Search" that I have going on eBay yielded two newly-posted ads with nearly identical headlines, and pictures of exactly the same item (different specific examples).  Prices differed by a little over 10:1.  Shipping on the more expensive one was  "only" three times as high as for the cheaper one.  Turned out that there were a lot of accessories with the one, justifying most of the difference. 
I also found things like "vintage" drill bits advertised at $20 to $30 each, when brand new ones of similar quality (good ones, US made) go for $5 - $7.  The pictures showed that the vintage ones were abused, with chewed-up shanks, burned tips, etc.  One was visibly bent.  For most of them, I wouldn't have paid a quarter, much less 100 times that much!  The vendor had at least 20, each priced individually.  Only a few listings gave the size, since the shanks had slipped in a chuck, and the information was obliterated.  I'm much less knowledgeable about other stuff on her site (saccharinely sweet "collectibles", mostly), but pricing there looked like it might only be double what was reasonable.

Quote from: ron darner on October 17, 2013, 11:54:43 AM
A lot of eBay prices are incredibly high, IMHO.  I wonder if the would-be sellers need the money to pay for whatever they're smoking!  I say "would-be" sellers because a lot of those item auctions end with 0 bids.  It's bad enough that the starting bids are 5 - 10 times what I'd pay for the same item locally, but then they have shipping costs on top of it.  Drills and other power tools tend to be bulky and heavy, so shipping can be a killer by itself.
I've also noted that some descriptions are far-fetched, or clearly written by someone who has never used the sort of tool offered.  Their expected prices are just as imaginary.  I have routinely written to vendors and pointed out errors, and suggested changes to descriptions.  Maybe one in five actually revises the text, or provides additional photos of critical details.  Most of the rest wind up with 0-bid auctions.
So far, I've refrained from trying to suggest why I think that their prices are out of line, though I have made an offer on specific items that was below the suggested starting bid.  I even got a couple of things that way.

+1

It's entertaining sometimes, but it can also be frustrating if it's something you want and it's not selling but the seller won't listen to reason. It makes you wonder if they overpaid for it themselves. If that's the case, they should just take their lickin', get what they can for it, and move on to bigger and better things. I tend to think it's generally newer, inexperienced sellers who had a couple  "lucky hits" conducting business this way.

Over on Old Woodworking Machines, there's a list of rules about machine selling/buying.  Rule No. 1 is, "The seller, standing in front of the machine with access to all sides and in full daylight, will not/cannot describe the machine correctly."  Applies to many things.

Nice drill; I hope you find the parts.

Trying to search for original parts will be p--sing into the wind.
But practically every power tool company stole each others designs.

I can't see the switch well enough in the photograph to offer much advise but,......

If its a simple toggle switch many times you can pry open the little tabs that hold the case together, and get down to the contacts and spring. Then you can rob a spring out of a switch that won't fit the drill's frame instead. Put it back together. 
    yours Scott

> pry open the little tabs that hold the case together, and get down to the contacts and spring

fair warning tho, I once had to drive back to the junkyard and get another ignition switch for a Chevy Nova....

When you hear springs and little balls bouncing off the garage walls behind you, you just know the chances of reassembly went to zero....

Open with care.....

Consider opening it inside one of those plastic boxes people buy to store their stuff in, or something like that.  At least when the parts bounce all around, it'll be in a limited space.

Says the guy who's spent 15 minutes looking for that one little part that fell in the sawdust and miscellaneous stuff on the shop floor.