Here is a restored Greene, Tweed & Co. No. 1 Hammer, used to pound sheet metal around molds and mandrels in the days before large presses were brought to bear in the production of precision-formed sheet metal panels.  The hammers, Nos. 1,2,3,4, and 5 are still found in flea markets. The leather faces are also still available. PM me for the name of the company that still sells them.

Greene, Tweed, in business since 1863, started as a hardware manufacturer and distributor.  Today, it is a global business, offering products in industrial, aerospace, computer, defense, and other global business sectors.

I have a couple similar,  made by Chicago Rawhide.  They are threaded to open/close around the leather.  Great non damaging persuaders.  Somewhere between rubber mallets and lead hammers. 

Hey guys,

Excuse me for dragging up this old thread but I do it with a purpose in mind. I have one of these hammers and I need to know what do I do to replace the rawhide in the center of the head. For instance where do I find the rawhide and once I do is installing it in the head a fairly straightforward proposition?

I hope one of you fellers knows and will chime in.

morning bump

You could look at MSC or McMaster Carr they might carry replacement inserts. I have seen them available before I just don't remember where.

Look here too.
http://www.hammersource.com/Iron_Solid_and_Split_Head/

2 other places to check;

Graingers has a long list of replacement faces

also;

Lixie Brand hammers in Rhode Island,  email;  www.info@lixiehammers.com

on their webpage, they show replacements.

you may have to give them the diameter and the thread size.

good luck, Frank

Mcmaster carr
  I have not seen them elsewhere.  They are spendy.

  I would try everything I could to save the old leathers first. Sometimes they are barely saveable, and barely saveable leathers are highly useable, even if they ain't pretty. 
  If the leathers are outright gone,  maybe replace one of them and put a piece of dogwood or some other wood insert in the other side?
A pocketknife and a small saw you can make one. You can always whittle a piece of wood.

Otherwise the total price of the mallet will probably make you want to go look for another one in better condition.
  I have one I was able to live with (a beat up #2 that I have beat with for years) and a #1 in pretty top shape. 
Both of them were almost free to me, but took a long time to find.
  yours Scott
Oh drill out the old leathers if you have to. Drill and pick and wrestle, you know.
You have to press the new rawhide in.   

Thank you guys, I appreciate the help. Scott, thank you for the tip on pressing the rawhide in the ends I did not know about that!

I've seen Garland rawhide mallets in the flea's around FL.  Surprisingly they are still in business and sell replacement tips in different sizes.  I put the link below.

http://www.garlandmfg.com/mallets/products.html?gclid=CISyl86o-cICFVIV7AodoRQAiQ

Mike

I bought a good sized piece. Of heavy ( 1/4in+) leather on ebay for 10 or 12 bucks. I wonder if you soaked it in water and rolled it real tight then let it dry for a few days. Just a thought. I have never done it.

If the leather is tanned leather it will never be as hard.
The mallet inserts are rolled green water buffalo rawhide.
That is why they are so hard and tough.
   yours Scott 

wow, Garland mfg. co. has been in Saco, Maine since 1866 and in the same family.

buy U.S.A. made hammers.

Scott,  I searched green water buffalo and came up empty.  I suppose that they can only be found in Timbuktu or Valhalla or someplace without Internet service. Where on earth did you learn that?

Quote from: johnsironsanctuary on January 05, 2015, 09:18:43 AM
Scott,  I searched green water buffalo and came up empty.

  It came when I was trying to buy new insert faces for my own mallet.
Rawhide is what all leather mallets use.   Any old thick uncured rawhide.
The Kansas City stockyards probably still has tons per day available.
     
   But lately, water buffalo from Asia (basically what constitutes ordinary cows for a lot of the world) is the place where they are still messing with rawhide more than anywhere else. 
    yours Scott

I have some rawhide.  It is hard and stiff until you wet it, then it expands and is slimy. Works great for drumheads and tight bindings. 

I think it would have to be pre-wound to go in a hammer head. If put in wet, it would shrink, right?

Also, I made a kind of a drum beater by winding a 1-1/2" or so strip around a 1/4" dowel. It was softer than a rawhide hammer head.

Rawhide is animsl skin that has been dried, but that wasn't tanned. Hence "raw" hide.

Really is slimy when wet.

I would be curious if anyone knows how to make a hammerhead with it. It is pretty easy to get ahold of, I have a few large pieces.

Chilly