Any info on this plane

[Nolatoolguy]

Shes got no marks or nothing on her. Just picked her up at a garge sale today. She measures 22 inches long.

[Branson]

At 22" she's a try plane -- comes between a jack and a joiner plane in size. 

The places to check for names are on the blade (ought to be something there) and on the front of the stock.

She's been around for a bit, judging by the insert at the mouth -- the mouth opens up as the wooden stock
wears down. 

[Nolatoolguy]

Branson-Thanks for the advice. I did find LOTO WORKS on the one end stamped in. On the other end all I can read is RM

[fliffy42]

can you post a pic of the LOTO stamp?

[lzenglish]

It has a very interesting handle design, (to me anyway). I can't remember seeing one with so little material that makes the bridge from the front of the handle to the rear, on the top of it? Nice find!

Wayne

[rusty]

OK, I had to match it up, you are missing 2 letters...

Should be 'SCIOTO WORKS'

From the Oldtool Archives:
"Scioto Works is the imprint used by The Ohio Tool Company for it's
second-grade line of beechwood planes. According to Pollaks, this imprint
was in use from 1893 to 1907.

The original Ohio Tool Company location was  near the Scioto River...

[lzenglish]

It seems the handle design on your plane is not that unusual at all, now that I have googled the "SCIOTO WORKS" site. I need to get out more! Lol

Interesting site here : http://www.blackburnbooks.com/Tools/ForSale.html

Wayne

[scottg]

  Well its not an uncommon tote, but not every plane has one.
They are kind a trip those totes.
There is an angled rear end.
  The part that goes into the plane? There is an angled, almost a dovetail, at the end, below where your hand rests, down into the stock.
  Then there is a single screw in the front and it locks it down like iron.   

A guy talked me into carving one for him, was how I did my first one.
I have done a few more, not many.
Not that I am looking for a tote carving job. I can't imagine trying to do it for actual money. 
Each one will have to be carved to fit cause they ain't standard.
And the planes aren't worth enough to justify the expense. 
I have already done enough jobs at 11 cents an hour.  hehehehheheeh

But I'll be glad to help anyone carve their own. I'll give my very best tips.
     
   Besides, it takes kind of a big piece of wood. At least big compared to the usual scraps I use for my projects.
  yours Scott 
 

[Nolatoolguy]

can you post a pic of the LOTO stamp?

Its so small, my camra cant get it. Its barely readable to me better yet a camra.

[bird]

Tune the thing up and use it!!!! The wooden inlay means that someone either took the time to put a more durable piece of wood into the place they knew would wear down the quickest, or they loved that plane enough to take the time to do a good job replacing the piece of wood that often takes the "brunt" of wear. (although, it shouldn't have to).
      Make sure the bottom of the plane is flat, work on the blade, and (I believe) the gap in the throat can be overcome by perfecting every other part of the plane. I think having a plane around 22-24 inches, and a plane that's 33-36 inches is imperative to woodworking.
       But, again, this is just my opinion--- planes above 20 inches or so do not have to be "tuned" to perfection.  Their purpose is to "cover a lot of ground" across a piece of lumber. As you progress to shorter and shorter planes, they have to be tuned up more precisely. For instance, once you get to using a block plane, you better have a blade that is in great condition, and ground to the right angle for the job (end grain). 
      Personally, I use a metal scraper after I go through all the hand planes I have. I use a piece of metal that looks like an index card. ..... any piece of metal will do.  ... the art is learning how to put a small "hook" on it in order to take off the smallest of imperfections in your otherwise finished piece of wood.
      I rarely use sandpaper anymore!!!
Although in between finishes I'll use a very fine grit of sandpaper to "rub out" any unwanted "bubbles" in the finish.
       Well, all you wanted to know was information about that plane. I've gone on a "rambling" spree.
But, I'm the "resident rambler" for a reason
cheers, bird

[Branson]

The wooden inlay means that someone either took the time to put a more durable piece of wood into the place they knew would wear down the quickest, or they loved that plane enough to take the time to do a good job replacing the piece of wood that often takes the "brunt" of wear. (although, it shouldn't have to).   

My experience has been that such pieces inletted at the mouth of wooden planes was/is done to make the opening of the mouth tighter.  Since the opening angles away from the mouth,  it will become wider with use and/or truing the the bottom of the plane.   Why get a new plane when you, as a carpenter, can fix it?  The pattern in the picture is the most common I have seen, though I have a try plane that has had the mouth tightened with a half dove tailed piece.