A week ago I took Saturday off to attend a once a year swap meet.  Did not make it last year and suffered from it for months.  It wasn't packed with tools, but if I had gotten half of them, would of taken 2 trips to get em home.  There were gas engines, tractors, parts, farm tools, boxes of rust, just a wonderful day. Is where I got that tire shrinker, and a carb for my JD tractor, and a bag of tools.   In one box were over 20 hammer heads, two bucks, your choice.  but passed on by.  Then on Thursday I stopped in at the local thrift.  At most I get a work shirt for a dollar as they seldom have more than a rusty hammer.   Somebody must have cleaned out grandpas shed, and hauled it  that morning.  When is the last time you saw a 12lb. straight peen sledge?  Then Saturday I spent a little time at the nearest antique mall.  First I found a very good pouring ladel, Stanley eggbeater attached to some wrenches, more wrenches, and a Pexto dividers.  Friday I didn't think I'd find anything at a church garage sale, but walked out with a framed print to make my wife happy, and a couple of files.  I've had to drag out another tool box and pack it tighter, its awful, makes them heavy too.  Thinking minus the two big items, I've wasted about $45.   One of these days I'm going to find some really good bargains. 

Looks like a nice bunch of tools to me.  What is the maker of that ratcheting screwwdriver right down in front?

That is a Yankee, but is in fact a push-drill.  Looks a lot like their famous ratcheting screwdriver.   One of the egg beater drills there is a Yankee 1530, the four speed model.  The big iron wrench is a JH Williams, with Pierce-Arrow on the reverse!  The stamped wrenches are quite a spread of things, one is an Indestro and another is stamped Lawrence.  At least one of them is for a gas bottle.  The rest for bicycles?  Note the small saw frame, jewelers saw.   I saw, but left behind a meat cutters saw, 9inch clearance, and over 33 inches in length, wood handle, looks like it could trim a side of beef.  This  will be my tool haul for awhile, that and am running out of room. 

Did somebody say stamped wrenches?

Checking prices, at least for me, your ladle paid for the stash.
The 12 pounder is probably a pavers hammer. Got much cobblestone in Nebraska, do you?
I can spot a 1530 in a pile, like it was made out of neon!  Its functional?

The little jewelers saw is a total miracle tool in the hands of the man who learns to use it.
My friend Peter can cut joined letters in flowing script, "Esmeralda", <1/4" tall and under 3/4" long from gold plate (to make an infants name bracelet),
then switch to 1/2" plate steel with one, when he wants.
   He's a horrid show off.
  I think tar and feathers is just about right!! 
 
Get the good blades though. The 2000 blades for $1.99 just won't do.

Oh yeah,...... you suck!
   yours Scott   

Here is a better peek at those stamped plain wrenches, one is an Indestro and another a Lawrence.   

Neat wrenches and thanks for posting the pict. but nothin I collect......yet :)

That ladle doesn't look like it's cast ... That kinda puts it in a whole other category.  And the jewelers saw -- what Scott said.  My wife and I have his and hers jewelers saws.

The ladel has marks that makes me think its forged.  The handle is forge welded to the bowl, then further up the handle is an arc welded repair.   Once something has been in the fire a few times, makes it tough to identify.  But its about 4 times as big as my other ladel.  What about those stubby cast wrenches?  NOt sure I've seen another of those.

Quote from: Dakota Woodworker on May 27, 2012, 02:30:25 PM
Looks like a nice bunch of tools to me.  What is the maker of that ratcheting screwwdriver right down in front?

Does the tack puller (2nd from The front left side) have any identifying markings? I have one that is identical and I am building new handles sides as the originals are gone. I will post my completed project when completed. It is taking so long 'cause I cured the maple for it fom a freshly cut tree about 6 or 8 mos ago. So far the rough handles are complete within a 32nd of an inch waiting for me to install brass pegs then I will finish the wood fitting, stain and seal.

Pics here I hope   http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n563/ietech/Perfect%20Handle%20Project/?albumview=slideshow

Any help on the ID would be appreciated.
Rich

That PH in the lower left is in fact a screwdriver, near the tip is a stamped 8 in a circle,   I have a few of the PH that have a similar stamp, but most of them have been ground off.  Germany is  visible, along with something that contains the letter (B).  6-7  letters.  When I rehandle a PH, I epoxy on one side/scale.   When its set, drill thru the wood from the inside.   Then glue on the second, when its set, use the first hole as a guide.  Note:  If you drill the holes at a 10 degree angle to each other, when the pins are pushed in, the scales are locked on.  They simply cannot slide off the pins even if the glue or epoxy degenerates.  I have been using brazing rod, but looking around had some heavier brass rod that originally held the float in the toilet tank.  well the price was right.  Thanks for asking.

Thanks John --- I was hoping it was a PH but there are no marks. Thanks for the other info too -- I am using 5/16" brass rod probably brazing rod as it is red brass not yellow, wish I had the yellow brass tho.

Thanks for the drilling suggestion as that is my final endeavor before I complete the job. I spent a lot of time getting the scales correct and if I screw up the drililng it's --- oh well --- LOL start all over. Thx again.

As i remember, some of the reddish brazing rod is phospher bronze, and somewhat brittle...

I found an unmarked PH last year that turned out to be marked *under* the scales btw....

2c

hmm, stubby scythe wrenches???

Thanks Rusty -- I'll check that out with a magnifier --- there are several rust pits under the scale area but IF I'm lucky I might find something. This one looks exactly like john k's screwdriver. It's 10-3/4" long.

I will do a practice run with the red brass before I try it on the project. If it is a problem I will buy some yellow, which I would prefer anyway. The only thing I am trying to accomplish with the red is that I have had this stick for ovr 40 yrs and would like to give it it's last HURRAH LOL  Oh well I'm Weird that way. But if it is stubborn I'll just keep it around for another for another forty   HAHAHA  That would make me 109 from today exactly.

When setting PH handles.........

Mark one frame face inside and one handle scale inside first thing.  They do not interchange. So if you want a decent fit, mark one of each so it always goes back the same.   
  Keep fitting and pressing, pressing, fitting and pressing, until both scales sit down flush and even.
Go not attempt to round off the outside in any way. Keep the handle slabs square for now.

When you get them sitting down and comfy, pry one scale back off. Use 5 min epoxy from any hobby shop, and glue one scale only back on. You don't need three tablespoons of the stuff which will gush out everywhere. Just a light coat on one scale is good.

5 minute is actually the most flexible of the epoxies and of course sets fast.  15 minute is a bit stronger, but not so's you'd notice, and takes longer to set. No advantage.
    Now into the vise and press hard until cured.

When its ready take the scale you didn't glue back off.
  Just like John said, drill through the frame and though the scale. See why you left the outside flat?? It will sit on the drill press just fine and make it easy for you.
Be very careful and slow how the drill bit breaks though. Rest it on scrap wood but you want to walk the drill very slow when breaking though anyway. Or it will bust up your wood face.

Now glue the second scale, pressing hard in the vise until set.
Then use the hole you drilled in the first scale to guide you drilling the second. 

  Brazing rod is totally acceptable for rivets. It doesn't pein as easy  since its harder than standard brass, but it still works fine.
 
   You want to level the scales to within 1/16 or so, of how thick they will be when finished. This puts a taper to the handle of course.  The front is shorter.
 
  Now take your rod and walk it though one hole with pliers.  Back and forth pushing as you go. If you pre-cut the rod to length and pound it through you will likely bust out wood where it exits,
  so walk it though instead.
 
When its though you want to cut off both ends with a hacksaw. Cut fairly close but never close enough so's you gouge the wood. 
I just place the rod in my bench vise and catch the driver as the rod parts.
  Take a coarse file and file the top of the rod smooth and even.
For rivets in wood you can leave the rivet about 1/32 high on each side to start,  and still have it hold when peined down well.  It doesn't take so much.
So file your rivet/rod until it is.

Now you can pein it.
Opinions vary on the best technique here.  Many people use the ball of a ball pein hammer to work around the outside top of the rivet. This works divine, probably better than anything,
  but I find its harder to aim the blows so you never touch the wood.
  I use the corner edge of the flat face of the hammer.
The bottom corner is the one that works best for me.  I hit the edge of the rivet face closest to me a couple times, turn the work 1/4 turn, and work that spot until I have gone around a couple/3 times and the metal is flowing.   
  Flip it over and work the other side. Same thing. 

   It is nearly inevitable you will accidentally strike the wood when you are just starting.
  Life is not over!! Don't kill yourself! 
Everyone misses from time to time.

   Either plug in your big ol heavy soldering iron, or go pilfer the wife's clothes iron and let that start heating up on high.
Find a coarse pure cotton rag and cut off a piece about 4" square. 
Grab a small container like a sour cream tub of fruit can, and fill it 1/2 full of water.
  When the iron gets piping hot,  fold a couple times and soak your rag. 
Lay it over the dent, hit it with the iron. Dig that fierce sizzle, and let the steam do its work. 

   It will take several tries but you will steam almost every bit of the nasty dent back out. You will be amazed.

  Last is coarse files, flexible sanding disks if you like (I do), strips of bent sander belt used "shoeshine style" and finally, finer and finer sand paper hand rubbed. 

If you have a buffing wheel, this puts the final high gloss on all like nothing else can.
I buff first with coarse polish, and then fine, and finally a ruffled buff loaded with pure carnuba wax. 
   
Now.......................
            Go get em!!
yours Scott